A roundup of some of the new key launches seen in and around the show
Fragrance company Mavive presented the first scent for Italian fashion brand Ermanno Scervino, which is due to launch in international domestic and travel-retail markets in April 2019. The eponymous feminine EdP was developed by Mane perfumers Mathilde Bijaoui, Julie Massé and Véronique Nyberg. An oriental gourmand, the juice features top notes of Gianduia Italian chocolate and white flowers; a heart of tuberose, coconut and jasmine; and a base of woods, vanilla and musk. “For us it’s important because it’s the first time Mavive has a fashion brand to interpret as a fragrance,” commented Mavive international sales director Marco Vidal. The fragrance will be available in 30ml, 50ml and 100ml formats retailing for €60, €95 and €125, and will be accompanied by a line of bath and body products. The ad campaign will be fronted by model Cosima Auermann.
Parfums Salvatore Ferragamo showcased Tuscan Creations, its high-end collection of fragrances that aims to show the brand’s craftsmanship and Italian heritage. The line will have a selective distribution, selling through around 60 to 70 doors by the end of 2018 and rolling out to 150 to 200 points of sale next year. “This line is a statement for us. It is not to generate volume, but to enhance our brand image, show the quality of our products, show our made in Italy, made in Tuscany credentials and tell the story of Ferragamo,” Ferragamo Parfums ceo Luciano Bertinelli told BW Confidential.
The brand will add a limited-edition fragrance to the line in April next year, with just 368 of the scents available. It comes in a white marble-effect bottle and is topped with a real marble cap. It will retail for €400. Ferragamo will also launch a new fragrance in its Amo line in February. Called Amo Flowerful, the EdT targets the Asian market and younger consumers.
Spanish fragrance brand Perfumes Loewe (LVMH) showcased its first women’s fragrance under the Solo franchise, Solo Ella. The fresh, fruity floral fragrance claims to have a 20% concentration of essential oils. The scent combines sambac jasmine and orange blossom, amber and cedar, and fruity notes of apple, peach and bitter orange. Franco-British actress Elisa Lasowski fronts the marketing campaign to support the fragrance. Solo Ella retails for €115 for 100ml and has been rolling out to global domestic and travel retail markets from October.
Lalique Beauty unveiled a major new women’s fragrance for its Lalique brand at the show. Called Lalique Soleil, the new fragrance will launch next spring. Lalique fragrances currently do retail sales of €125m, evenly split between men’s and women’s scents. The company will also re-launch its Grès Cabochard fragrance in 2019. “Next year will mark Cabochard’s 60th anniversary. We have rejuvenated Cabochard to bring the juice more into line with the tastes of today’s consumers and have also adapted the bottle,” commented Lalique Beauty ceo Roger von der Weid.
Kao-owned Molton Brown unveiled a major new collection for next year, marking its debut in the eau de parfum category and intended to strengthen its position in fine fragrance. “This is the most important launch for us and a very big project. With it we want to elevate the brand and push the luxury position,” commented Molton Brown brand manager Victoire Versluys. The launch will include the introduction of new packaging inspired by the brand’s roots on South Molton Street in London and featuring seventies-style cues. The new EdP collection will bring the brand’s total number of fragrances to 27.
US-based House of Sillage unveiled its Rainbow Collection limited-edition lipsticks. The collection presents the brand’s bow-shaped lipstick case in eight different colors. Each case is finished with brightly colored enamel and decorated with diamond-cut Swarovski crystals; lipstick refills can be purchased for the cases. House of Sillage indicated that it plans to come out with major new fragrance projects next year. The brand also just launched its first holiday boutique at luxury shopping mall South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, California.
France-based INCC unveiled its new fragrance for the Mercedes-Benz brand at its traditional cocktail party at the show. Called The Move, this is the eighth major scent for the Mercedes brand. Created by IFF perfumer Dominique Ropion, the aromatic fougere fragrance targets a millennial audience. It comes in a rounded blue bottle. “This launch marks a new chapter for the brand as with it we are going after millennials and so will reach another type of consumer,” commented INCC president Rémy Deslandes. The Move fragrance retails at €55 (60ml EdT) and €69 (100ml EdT) and will launch next April. The Mercedes-Benz fragrance brand is targeting retail sales of between €115m and €120m by the end of the year.
Jewelry brand Chopard revealed the third fragrance in its Happy Chopard collection, which is slated to hit shelves next April. Called Happy Chopard Bigaradia, the fragrance plays on the bitter orange theme (bigaradier is French for the bitter orange tree). It was created by Firmenich perfumer Dora Baghriche and puts a strong focus on natural ingredients in line with Chopard’s sustainable luxury strategy, which was initiated in 2013. The fragrance comes in a tall glass bottle with a round pink cap and joins the collection’s Lemon Dulci and Felicia Roses, the first two eaux de parfum of the trilogy. Happy Chopard Bigaradia will retail at €69 (40ml EdP) and €125 (100ml EdP).
French designer brand Castelbajac (Sodip) revealed it would release a third women’s fragrance for the brand’s Beautiful Day franchise for Christmas 2018 called L’Intense. The company is also preparing to release a men’s fragrance for the brand next April. Castelbajac president Selma Mami said the men’s fragrance would be positioned in a lower price bracket at €60 for 100ml in line with the company’s overall philosophy to produce quality products at accessible prices. “Consumers can’t be duped anymore; they know they can have very good products at reasonable prices. There are plenty of good brands that are bringing out very good fragrances for €29, and each time we bring out a new fragrance we will always drop the price because there is a much bigger demand for that. The selective fragrance market is saturated,” Mami commented.
Castelbajac fragrances are currently sold exclusively in Marionnaud in France. Mami said the arrangement would continue for at least the coming year even as the brand begins working on launching internationally. “In 2019, we will focus more on export,” commented Mami, adding that the brand plans to target Europe and Asia. “Castelbajac is very well known in Korea and we will create specific perfumes for that market.”
Guerlain is to launch what it calls a disruption in the foundation category in 2019. The brand says that the new launch, called L’Essentiel, will reinvent the foundation category by combining its skincare expertise with a natural formula. The formula claims to have 97% natural ingredients and is said to last up to 16 hours. Also in make-up, the brand will launch its Terracotta product in a stick format in March to cater to the need for on-the-go products. In fragrance, the brand will add a new scent to its Mon Guerlain franchise called Mon Guerlain Bloom of Rose in March. The Aqua Allegoria line will also be a focus with the introduction of three new scents to the range. Meanwhile, for La Petite Robe Noire, the brand will launch a new scent in January, Ma Robe de Velours, and another in June called Ma Robe Plissée.
US-based The Perfumer’s Workshop showcased its new White Woods Collection for its Amouroud brand. The new line is intended to complement the olfactive territory of the original range of Amouroud fragrances and so recruit new consumers to the brand. The company presented five fragrances in the line, including White Hinoki, a woody, spicy fragrance by perfumer Angelique Nadau, Lunar Vetiver, a woody oriental by Jerome Di Marino and Silver Birch, a floral woody scent. The fragrances come in heavy white bottles adorned with a gold nameplate and cap.
France-based Groupe Berdoues presented a new addition to its Grands Crus collection called Azur Riviera to be launched in the first quarter of 2019. Created by perfumer Jean-Marie Santantoni, the fragrance has notes of fucus, jasmine and orange blossom. Berdoues is known for its white-label fragrances but is now looking to focus on promoting its own scents.
Italian company Euroitalia unveiled its latest launch from the Moschino brand, Moschino Toy 2. The fragrance follows on from the Toy scent, which launched in 2014 and came in the form of a soft teddy bear. Toy 2 comes in a glass bottle, which features the arms and legs of a teddy bear wrapped around it, while the cap is the head of the bear. The fragrance is described as a floral, woody musk and was created by Alberto Morillas and Fabrice Pellegrin of Firmenich.
Euroitalia will also launch a new addition to the Eros franchise for the Versace brand. Called Eros Flame, the men’s fragrance was created by Givaudan perfumer Olivier Pescheux and is described as a hesperidic, amber, woody scent. It comes in a red square bottle engraved with the Versace emblem of the medusa head.
Parfums Givenchy will introduce a major new foundation next March called Teint Couture Everwear. The brand claims that the foundation is extremely long lasting and describes it as being All Emotion Resistant. The foundation will come in 20 shades in a bid to address all skin types. In fragrance, the brand will add a Couture limited edition to its L’Interdit fragrance line in February and an EdT for L’Interdit in the second half of next year.
Spanish company Perfumes Y Diseno showcased two new fragrances for the Starck franchise. Both scents launched in selective domestic markets in September. The Peau de Nuit Infinie men’s EdP was created by Delphine Lebeau and has mineral notes, bergamot and lemon/ambergris and fossilized wood. A new women’s fragrance, Peau de Lumière Magique, is a fresh floral EdP created by perfumer Daphné Bugey (Firmenich) and incorporates citrus and peppery notes, Indian jasmine and ginger blossoms, and patchouli. Both fragrances are bottled in the Starck signature flacons with gold and silver touches. The fragrances retail for €95 (100ml EdP).
Groupe Panther presented a new niche fragrance brand, La Closerie de Parfum. Three years in the making, La Closerie de Parfum is targeting the high-end niche category with seven scents that have been developed using high-quality raw materials, according to Groupe Panther ceo Antoine Madrid. La Closerie de Parfum’s initial offer consists of four oud-based fragrances and three rose-based fragrances, each with a spicy middle note inspired by Bordeaux’s history as a traditional spice port. La Closerie de Parfum fragrances will retail at €158 to €198 for 100ml. The brand is launching in France, domestic European and Middle East markets in October, and possibly in Russian duty free.
French fragrance brand Etat Libre d’Orange has recycled waste products to create the key ingredients in its latest offering, Les Fleurs du Déchet – I Am Trash. Created by Givaudan perfumer Daniela Andrier, I Am Trash features a natural apple note extracted from the by-products of food production processes used to make apple compote and purées. The unisex fragrance, which retails for €130 (100ml), is rolling out to independent perfumeries at the brand’s 600 points of sale globally from mid-October.
Israeli skincare brand Ahava is rolling out a four-sku anti-aging line, Apple of Sodom, featuring an active ingredient derived from the Apple of Sodom plant native to the Dead Sea desert. Ahava says the plant’s milky sap was used in ancient times to treat skin conditions such as psoriasis. Ahava has combined the callus of the Apple of Sodom with Dead Sea minerals to create a patented complex called AoS. The brand says the ingredient works as a natural Botox-like alternative. The Apple of Sodom line includes an Activating Smoothing Essence (100ml for €55), Advanced Deep Wrinkle Smoothing Cream (50ml for €83), Deep Wrinkle Filler (15ml for €89) and Overnight Deep Wrinkle Mask (50ml for €89). Apple of Sodom is currently rolling out to European markets, with the launch in Israel and the US slated for the end of the year, and travel retail in January 2019.
French organic skincare brand Patyka presented its new rich-textured Youth Remodeling Cream. The anti-aging cream contains organic vegetable hyaluronic acid, Wakame extract and oat polysaccharides to hydrate, firm and smooth skin. “We’re not just targeting the organic-skincare consumer,” Patyka president Pierre Juhen explained to BW Confidential. “We’re targeting the skincare consumer that wants effective skincare that feels good.”
The Elizabeth Arden brand (Revlon) presented a new product in its Ceramide Capsules range based on retinol. The new Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum claims to combine the anti-wrinkle properties of retinol with the repair benefits of ceramides. The single-dose capsule format is also said to protect retinol from light and air exposure, which can affect its stability and potency. The brand said that retinol in these capsules is 76% more potent than their non-encapsulated equivalent.
Arden has also introduced a new travel-retail exclusive set featuring two Ceramide products: The new retinol product and the Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum.
In addition, Revlon showcased a new line from its American Crew men’s brand. Called Acumen, it is positioned as a prestige range of grooming and skincare products. It comprises 15 products covering shower, shave, skincare and hair styling. The products range in price from $19 to $40.
Spain-based Tailored Perfumes presented the first fragrances for the Pepe Jeans franchise which began rolling out internationally in October. The men’s and women’s fragrances are presented in distinctive cocktail shaker and martini glass bottles and will have an “upper masstige” positioning. Tailored Perfumes export department director Laurent Cayrol said the company wanted to create an iconic product with a “good vibes” message that would appeal to millennial consumers. “The upper masstige positioning gives us flexibility [in distribution]. Depending on the country, we will be in selective perfumeries and drugstores,” commented Cayrol. The Pepe Jeans fragrances retail at €45 for 80ml and will be accompanied by a social-media campaign with the hashtag #lifeisnow. The brand began rolling out to 20 European countries in October, which will be followed by Saudi Arabia and Kuwait by the end of the year.
US-based TPR Holdings showcased its first fragrance for designer brand Elie Tahari, which will be launched in March as part of the designer’s 45th-anniversary celebrations. Created by Givaudan in collaboration with Tahari, the juice features bergamot, citrus, green fig and tea blossom, with base notes of musk and amber. The fragrance will retail at $68 (30ml) and $128 (100ml) and the line will also include a candle and purse spray and will retail in selective department stores and online.
Swiss brand Mavala is gearing up to celebrate its 60th anniversary next year. To mark the event, the brand presented a 60s-inspired kit at the show featuring a red and white polka dot vanity case filled with the brand’s most iconic products. The kit will go on sale next year.
Swiss brand Rivoli has launched a new formulation for its Rejuvenating Day Cream. Called Rejuvenating Day Cream No 02, the product claims to protect the skin against pollution, UV and blue light, while boosting collagen to firm and smooth the skin. The cream is also vegan certified. The Rivoli brand is now sold in 250 pos in Europe.
Korean skincare brand Dr. Jart+ (Have & Be Co) showed its Cicapair line, which contains what it calls the super-ingredient Centella Asiatica or Tiger Grass. The ingredient is said to soothe and calm skin. The line’s main target is the 25-35 age group. The latest product in the line is Calming Mask, a sheet mask that promises to moisturize and soothe dry and sensitive skin. In terms of travel retail, the brand is working on building awareness on digital to drive sales in the channel. “Firstly, we make sure that we already have a line of communication with travel-retail customers through social media. This means that the customer already knows our brand and can just pick up products in duty-free shops. We are also developing digital popups [to attract consumers]. The Chinese are our key customer,“ comments Have & Be Co president Leeo Lee.