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Industry soundbites Insight: Fragrance creation Talking heads Fragrance house executives give their views on the issues facing today’s market by Alissa Demorest “We’re beginning to see some prestige fragrances do very “We are often asked if, well in China, but will business continue to grow? I’m not as a fragrance house, sure; the jury is still out. I have more faith in the markets of we can inject creativity Indonesia, India and, of course, Brazil. The Brazilian market into the market, but it’s is huge, mainly due to the door-to-door sales culture, which complicated. We are not has given fragrance consumption a tremendous push.” lacking in creativity, but Givaudan fragrance division president if we are too creative, Michael Carlos we risk losing a brief, as we can’t provide enough reassurance “The regulatory environment is more diffcult than ever or guarantees [in and putting new ingredients on the market is more costly; terms of consumer testing]. This makes us a this probably won’t change. We are working with more bit powerless when it comes to bringing new constraints, which are increasingly complex, but we are still things to the market. ” able to be creative.” Symrise senior vice president global Firmenich senior vice president fne fragrance fne fragrance Béatrice Mouleyre worldwide Olivier de Lisle “The main issue is the regulatory environment. Although “The challenge is to the industry is moving towards more regulation, there is design fragrances with no consistency in efforts at harmonization across different strong identities, [in] regions; this creates challenges for global briefs and the right category and opportunities for regional launches.” with the right brand ©Gérard Uféras consumer liking. This IFF global fne fragrance president ft, while generating Bertrand Lemont takes focus, expertise and well-designed consumer research and insight tools. It also “We’re faced with a dilemma—should we create something very unique and innovative when we know takes leadership to recognize innovation and that it will ultimately fail a market test? Of course, we fnancial strength to support it. The business understand that fragrances need to be a commercial model of tomorrow can no longer be linear success very quickly, but we appreciate it when customers with a series of silos; it will be circular and all are willing to be bold and take a shot in the dark.” inclusive, with increased respect and beneft- sharing between stakeholders. ” CPL Aromas group marketing & branding director Francis Pickthall Mane president Michel Mane 32 September-October 2014 - N°19 - BW Confidential credit: istock