BW Confidential highlights some of the key innovations unveiled at the 15th edition of the MakeUp in Paris trade show, which took place in the city’s Carrousel du Louvre from June 18-19
GEKA showcased its Lume collection, focusing on light effects, gold tones and pearlescent finishes. The collection includes two mascaras. The luxeLASH mascara has a cylindrical, conical shaped brush made from the company’s spikySNOWFLAKE fiber. The cylindrical part reaches longer lashes, while the conical tip accentuates short lashes in the corner of the eyes and bottom lashes; the open surface of the brush also provides volume. The fanCBrush mascara has two application zones – the upper bristles are adapted to the shape of the eyeball, while the short bristles on the tip work on tiny lashes.
In line with demand for easy-to-apply new fragrance formats, the collection also features a micro-bristle applicator for precise application of gel-textured scents. In addition, there was a precision tip eyeliner and a non-flocked applicator for skincare or make-up, offering a fast and clean application and an ultra shiny formula. Lastly in the collection was a facial massage tool called Glass Ice Globes infused with golden flakes. The items come in a draw-string beauty pouch made from PU material.
Gotha Cosmetics showed three key products at the event. Waterburst Dazzle Top Coat, a multi-functional water-based gel formula in a stick format for the eyes, lips and cheeks. It contains over 70% water and its solid-meets-jelly texture provides a wet-look and lightweight shine. The blend of jellyfying agents is based on natural polysaccharides extracted from red seaweed, known for being able to form elastic, uniform gels. The company says the product reflects the growing demand for playful, sensorial and multi-use color cosmetics. The product won the show’s Ocean Beauty Award, which recognizes innovations developed using marine-based ingredients or materials.
The Berry Mocktail Gloss claims to be a cooling, water lip gloss formula that delivers vitamin-rich color resulting in shiny and hydrated lips. The Bubble Gum Eyeshadow Palette contains four hybrid eyeshadows which are lightweight like a powder and melt like a cream, the company says. The eyeshadows are described as having a gummy texture and come in matte, satin, metallic and sparkling versions.
This year, Gotha Cosmetics is celebrating its 20th anniversary and has created a new logo for the occasion featuring a stylized heart.
Faber-Castell Cosmetics presented ‘Gold & Green,’ a product concept that aims to focus on luxury through the lens of sustainability and conscious beauty. Each product in the collection combines clean and vegan formulations that do not contain microplastic particles.
The range features a clean matte liquid eyeliner formulated without carbon black. The new formula contains activated charcoal, known for its pigmentation and for being able to absorb oil and impurities like a magnet. The formula contains up to 95.5% ingredients of natural origin. It comes in a capillary pen system and claims to offer an intense, deep black color with matte finish and all-day wear without smudging or fading.
For lips, the company showed natural lipliners in both wooden sharpen-able and mechanical versions. The lip formula is NATRUE and COSMOS certified with up to 100% ingredients of natural origin. The creamy wooden lipstick claims to have a soft, nourishing texture in a sharpen-able format – a nod to sustainability without compromising on luxury, the company says. There is also a brow pencil featuring a spoolie applicator, and a matte eyeliner sharpen-able plastic pencil that is composed without styrene, based on polyamid-12 to meet the upcoming plastic regulations in the EU.
The company says the collection is locally produced and transparently sourced, and that it reflects a shift in the industry from fast beauty to ethics, whereby luxury is not just about what consumers wear, but what they stand for.
Schwan Cosmetics presented three new launches. The Blur Me Away Liner for the lips has a 5mm domed tip providing increased precision. It hugs the lips and blurs the formula as it is being applied meaning there is no need for extra blending, the company says. It has a creamy, gel formula that lasts for 12 hours. The Color Balancing Grip Primer is a slightly tinted formula in pen format that claims to grip color formulas and enhance them, meaning the make-up applied after lasts and stands out. The third product is the OnPoint Perfector, a concealer with a micro tip to precisely target spots and imperfections. The product is infused with niacinamide, thereby providing skincare benefits.
Korean company Cosmax presented the Pure C Illumin8er. The product’s oil/water cream formula is infused with 8% unaltered vitamin C at 99% purity, which has been stabilized through a technology that uses 100% biodegradable cellulose. The company says there are few stable formulas containing vitamin C at such a high concentration on the market.
Nuon Medical presented a number of beauty tech prototypes featuring light, microcrrents, hot and cold effects and vibrations. They included the Smart Light Therapy Skin Analyzer, which measures skin hydration and sebum levels, and diffuses microcurrents to open pores, followed by red light. The company says that these combined actions can optimize the effects of a treatment. Results can be measured daily and recorded directly from the device onto the user’s smartphone.
Also on show was the Skin Elasticity Analyzer, a jar featuring a built-in accessory that detects skin elasticity levels. The combined action of the LED and vibrations then help the formula to penetrate the epidermis for increased effectiveness.
Another diagnostic device on show, this time in the area of scalp and haircare, was The Smart Scalp Diagnostics Device, which has electrostimulation technology to stimulate the scalp with the aim of activating hair re-growth. A miniature camera connected to the user’s smartphone indicates sebum content and hair density.
For the lips, the company presented its Compact Lip Treatment Device, with an integrated spatula that allows the user to scoop out the precise amount of balm and apply to the lips, while a red LED then helps the moisturizing active ingredients to penetrate.
Also in lips was The Lip Hydration Silicone Wand, a tube containing a silicone applicator with integrated LEDs that activate the penetration of the formula into the lips, optimizing hydration for a plumping effect. While designed for lips, the item can also be used for a serum or other treatment products.