BW Confidential reports on what was seen and heard at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, which took place from March 26-29
This year’s Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna show took place against a backdrop of the escalating war in the Middle East. The conflict was a key talking point at the event, with exhibitors in the Cosmopack area questioning the impact of an energy shock on inflation and consumer spend, as well as on pricing of raw materials and logistics costs. There are also worries about the supply chain, in terms of delivery delays and a potential shortage of raw materials. However, on this count, measures put in place during the Covid pandemic should stand the industry in good stead. On the upside, executives pointed to the beauty sector’s much-talked about resilience when it comes to crisis.
Industry players were much more optimistic this year on Asia, citing some small signs of improvement in the market in China, and much potential in Southeast Asia and in India. (Although the Middle East situation could also have severe repercussions for the region).
Other talking points included the growing need for speed in a bid to respond to new trends (driven by social media) and for flexibility. Increasingly, formula and packaging suppliers are also looking to work with more indie brands, given how quickly some of these smaller brands can take off (with some citing brands such as Rhode as an example), and are reducing their minimum order quantities as a result. In addition, the strong demand for personalization continues, as does requests for hybrid and sensorial formulas and new formats (especially in fragrance), as well as innovation in applicators.
In the finished products section of the show, K-beauty was much in evidence, with more than 200 Korean exhibitors. Korea’s beauty association IBITA brought 108 of these brands to the show. Korea’s dominant beauty retailer Olive Young also exhibited at the event this year, showcasing three of its own-label brands: clinically-oriented skincare brand Bioheal Boh, plant-based skincare brand for sensitive skin Bringgreen, and make-up brand Colorgram. As previously reported, Olive Young is looking to roll out these brands in Europe. All in all, the event this year welcomed 3,000 exhibitors and 255,000 visitors from 150 countries.
A high point of the event this year was the Cosmoprof Awards, which recognizes products, formulas, packaging and design from exhibitors at the show. Some 16 companies received awards at the ceremony on March 27. In addition, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna honored Anastasia Soare, Founder and CEO of Anastasia Beverly Hills, with its 2026 Life Achievement Award. Born in Romania and relocated to the US in the late 1980s, Anastasia Soare saw success in eyebrow products and make-up. Her brand is now present in more than 2,000 retail locations worldwide.
BW Confidential will publish a special edition highlighting the winners of the awards and those nominated for the prizes.
Heard at the show: Industry players on the market
Intercos CEO Renato Semerari
“In the current geopolitical climate, my primary concern is maintaining service continuity for our customers. To avoid delivery delays stemming from logistical difficulties, we are working to build up safety stocks.
My second concern involves the predictable return of inflation and rising costs which, beyond slowing economic growth, will create a sense of anxiety for the end consumer.
We will continue to introduce innovations across all our business segments; new products currently represent 30% of our turnover. Our make-up division recorded growth that outperformed the market in 2025 and rebounded strongly after two slower years. We experienced three years of extraordinary growth in China, where we supported the expansion of local brands, which have come to understand that long-term growth requires quality. They are seeking innovation, not just imitations.
In 2025, the Chinese beauty market grew by 5%. While it won’t return to the 12–14% rates of the past, the growth potential is clearly there when you consider that annual per capita spending is $52 in China compared to $400 in Japan. I am also convinced that India—with its 1.4 billion inhabitants and its culture of color—will be for make-up what China was for skincare.”
Gotha Cosmetics CEO Paolo Valsecchi
“ The year 2026 started well for reorders. The impact of the situation in the Middle East will depend on how long the crisis lasts. While sales in the Middle East domestic market are relatively small, the impact on regional travel retail is significant. Asia, and especially China, is the place to be; it is the market with the most potential.”
Art Cosmetics Managing Director Marco Quotadamo
“The challenge today is to come out faster with the right innovation. The use of AI both in production and industrialization is a way to shrink [lead] times.”
Asquan Group President Henri Tinchant
“The geopolitical context may have an impact on the delivery of raw materials, but Chinese and Indian cargo ships manage to take the usual sea routes. Also some suppliers have good stocks. Obviously it will all depend on how long the war situation goes on.”
Innovations on show
German company Geka launched its new Brush Beats collection. The collection includes six new mascaras with new brush cuts based on perfectly straight cuts and complex designs, associated with six different music styles. Geka’s sustainable Shadow Printing decoration technology that uses no additional ink or foil, allows for infinite variations of the packaging.
Italian company Gotha cosmetics launched Juicy Putty Bronzer & Blush, which offers a sensorial experience thanks to a bouncy texture that instantly melts into the skin. Neither a powder, nor a cream, its micro-aerated matrix releases pigments and emollients for buildable colour with a satiny finish and long-lasting comfort, the company says.
Italian manufacturer Art Cosmetics introduced Cryo Blur, a light ultra-fine loose powder that incorporates 33% active water-gel. It provides an immediate cooling sensation while blurring imperfections and leaving the complexion mattified. It is infused with Biothox3, a triple-action complex inspired by in-clinic lifting procedures that claims to support collagen synthesis and smooth expression lines.
Italian company Chromavis introduced its new make-up line Fusionique, meant to express the convergence of performance and sensorial experience. The star of the line is Everveil, a setting powder with a gummy-to-powder texture that offers a natural looking effect. The bouncy texture is obtained through a structuring elastomere that replaces traditional microplastics. The hybrid formula is infused with a key active (Undaria pinnatifida extract) that delivers lasting hydration, the company says.
German company Faber Castell introduced its Tint Lip collection in two versions. The Slim Styler allows precise application to draw the contour of the mouth and is ideal for touch-ups on-the-go while the Jumbo, designed for easy use with controlled dosing, dispenses a highly pigmented formula evenly.
Italy-based Essentia Beauty , showcased Longevitech, a facial skincare product that integrates a beauty device directly in the cap of the jar. The formula, which comes in two textures, for young and mature skin, is engineered for optimal interaction with the device. The routine has three steps: the red light is activated to massage the skin, the cream is applied, and then a microcurrent is said to maximize the cream’s efficacy.
Paris-based Anjac introduced Whipped Hydrating Gel Balm. The daily skincare product combines sensorial airy mousse texture (using Anjac Airflow technology) with the freshness of a gel upon application. It is said to deliver the triple action of hydration, nutrition and reinforcement of skin barrier.
Shanghai-headquartered HCP packaging group introduced Jelly Touch, a soft silicone jelly-like tip that can take multiple shapes like domes, hearts, petals applied on an 8-10 ml EBM tottle. The tip is billed as sensorial, fun, hygienic and ideal for the on-the-go use. It can be filled in with skincare or colour formulas.
Germany-based Schwan Cosmetics unveiled META-INK in PrimeLiner, a new liquid liner platform that uses one unified base formula (INCI), enabling rapid shade development in a nearly unlimited spectrum, from intense tones to pearly effects. The company says the new offer has a clean formula, vibrant color payoff and is long-lasting. The pen-format facilitates application in one go, while the patent-pending PrimeLiner packaging system is customizable with various decoration options.
Portugal-based Colep launched Skin Sync make-up remover. The formula is dispensed through an aerosol as a foam, which thanks to precise aerodynamics and polymer interactions, transforms into a cotton-like pad infused with a sustainable plant-based humectant blend. The pad, suitable for all skin types, dissolves make-up with no need for any other product, the company says.
Hong-Kong headquartered Asquan presented Bondi, a push-button dispensing system (patent pending) designed to dispense low viscosity formulas like miscellar waters or serums with a simple intuitive gesture. The product is described as being easy to use, even with one hand, and responds to consumer demand for clean, mess-free dispensing systems. Thanks to its vented nozzle and leak-proof design, the system enables precise and accurate dispensing, minimizing product waste. Applied on bottles from 30ml to 150 ml in standard PET or customizable glass, the cap is crafted from PET and PP/elastomer.
French nail specialist Fiabila launched Nail’N’Hair Milky serum, a product based on Fiabila’s keratin expertise and designed to be applied both on nails and hair in a single gesture. Formulated with 96.5% ingredients of natural origin, the formula combines ceramides, omega fatty acids, a marine algae amino-peptide complex and argan oil. The company claims it smooths the nails and cuticles and softens the hair.
Berlin Packaging presented new metal-free and POM-free dispensing systems for skincare and personal care products, available in atmospheric and airless versions. Developed without any metal components inside the dispensing chamber, these systems claim to guarantee precision, mechanical reliability, and compatibility with various formulas, while also helping to simplify recycling processes and promote a more circular approach to packaging.
Also on show was the Pockii collection’s new high-volume formats, including the 50ml mono-material PP bottle for premium concentrated formulas and the 100ml PET 20/400 bottle for creams and sprays, in line with the growth of on-the-go formats.
The company also showcased XOCO, (which BW Confidential reported on in February), a polypropylene material made from upcycled hazelnut shells. The material uses natural fillers derived from hazelnut shells with a polypropylene (PP) base to create packaging components through plastic injection and blow molding. The material comprises 10% of hazelnut shells. The company says that the new material has the same performance as PP and that XOCO components can be disposed of in standard recycling streams. Berlin worked on the project with Krill Design, a company that specializes in transforming organic waste into functional fillers. The material can be applied to functional and decorative elements such as pump covers, collars, droppers, jar caps, fragrance caps and accessories.
Key trends from the show
- From minimalism to maximalism: A return to bold colors.
- Eyes make a comeback: High-impact eyeliners and colorful shadows for expressive looks.
- Smart packaging: Rising demand for intuitive, mess-free, and easy-to-use dispensing systems.
- The cooling effect: Lipsticks, serums, and plumping gels formulated for a fresh, cooling sensation.
- Topical procedures: Skincare and even make-up products positioned as non-invasive alternatives to surgery and claiming to mimic its effect.
- Continued rise of sticks: A favourite format for all types of products – sun care, bodycare, lip care, foundations, cleansing items.
- Sensorial textures: light, comfortable, soft, foamy, and airy textures are a must.
In and around the show
