BW Confidential spotlights the innovations, trends and key talking points from the Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna show, which took place from April 28 to May 2
Beauty industry executives were glad to be back at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna after a two-year absence. “Shows are fundamental, and Cosmoprof Bologna is a signal of the [industry’s] restart despite the current complex situation,” beauty association Cosmetica Italia President Renato Ancorotti summed up. In addition, many exhibitors invested in renovated booths, which were larger, more open and more colorful than in the past. International buyers were present, mainly from Europe, but also from the Americas and the Middle East. Those from China of course were absent.
The enthusiasm among the 2700 exhibitors from 40 countries and the 220, 057 visitors was nonetheless tainted by the current supply-chain difficulties and geo-political situation. War in Ukraine and lockdowns in China were key talking points, as were the rising costs of raw materials, energy and delivery delays. Sustainability, and the 3Rs (Reduce, Refill/Reuse, Recycle) were also dominant themes. All in all, on a positive note, most executives said they remained convinced that the beauty market will keep on growing. Next year’s Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna show will take place from March 16-20, 2023.
Innovations from the show
Italian contract manufacturer Gotha Cosmetics used the show to highlight its recent acquisition of Chinese cosmetic company iColor Group. It also introduced its new make-up collection, called Seeking Joy. The Balmy Thermo Foundation has a gemstone design, which according to Gotha, intensifies the satiny velvet effect when applied. It is a hybrid product that claims to give a healthy look and hydrate the skin thanks to soothing ingredients.
Italy-based company Baralan celebrated its 60th anniversary and unveiled a new brand identity for the occasion highlighting its ESG strategy focused on sustainability. As part of the strategy, the company presented a new bio-based packaging series and a new range of closures available in three PCR levels (30%, 60%, 100%) as an alternative to polypropylene. It also showcased its new mono-material adjustable two-part sifter to be paired with glass jars through an additional rotating twist-and -lock feature, which helps to control dispensed product and prevents from spilling when closed.
German make-up manufacturer Faber-Castell Cosmetics showcased what it describes as “the most sustainable cosmetic pencil you can get”. It is an airtight pencil in wood packaging that claims to deliver highly pigmented color and soft gliding and long-lasting textures. The highlighting and blush stick is a wood pencil jumbo with a waterproof texture, and the eyeliner and kajal is a slim wood pencil with a ferrule for different applicators. According to the company, wood is the material of the future.
Italy-based Chromavis unveiled a range of new trends at its ‘Open Conversation’ -themed booth. The company says that Open Conversation focuses on the idea of questioning beauty archetypes of the past and getting rid of taboos. Two trend collections, Post Perfectionism and Open Conversation are said to break away from traditional make-up in terms of application, how the product is defined and the product’s use, and embody the idea of self-expression.
The Psychoactive, Luxomodity and Protechtive collections aim to highlight the company’s research in raw materials, sensoriality, protection and luxurious make-up. Pyschoactive spotlights new sensations in make-up; Luxomodity aims to combine the opposites of luxury and commodity, while Protechtive conveys a cleaner approach to protective beauty and ultra-performance, the company says. Lastly, Chromavis’ Chromavision showcased its technology in hot poured, powders baked with new visual effects.
US-based cosmetics brush company Anisa forecasts growing requests for skincare tools due to the rise of the self-care trend. It presented its Pinnacle body brush with a triangular headshape designed to fit in all areas of the body and using any kind of make-up or skincare. The company claims that the densely packed fibers of Pinnacle allow coverage without streaking. The company also showcased Bean, a kidney-bean shaped skincare tool in zinc alloy designed to smooth the eye area. Naturally cool, it can be used with or without product, and with its flat base, can stand upright allowing for a more hygienic tool.
Spain-based manufacturer Quadpack showcased Woodacity, a range of full wood mono-material fragrance caps in three shapes. The absence of a plastic insert completes the sustainability aspect as closure is enabled through friction and click-and-screw systems. The wood is sourced from sustainably managed forests. Quadpack previewed future developments in the line, including full wood refill solutions for powder compacts and jars to be launched later this year.
Swiss tech start-up Kaiosid presented a product identification solution to be applied to packaging that is invisible, thereby differentiating it from a QR code. The company provides a file for printing that gives a unique identification to each product and cannot be altered, allowing the brand to detect any fraud. Consumers can also scan products using the solution with their phones to access product information.
Italian primary packaging manufacturer Lumson highlighted its new airless pouch dispensing system, called XPAPER, which was recognized with a Cosmopack Award. It is contained in a 100% recyclable cardboard outershell made with FSC paper from European sourcing. The company claims that the paper outershell allows a reduction of 50% of the weight of a PET bottle. The other eco-friendly plus is the easy separation of the plastic components from the paper to appropriately recycle each part.
Shanghai headquartered HCP Packaging company showcased Uno, a jumbo mono-material mascara that facilitates recycling. The fibers and brushes can be molded in ‘Eco-Flexi’, a bio-based zero-plastic material, which is compatible with all types of mascara formulas and applicator shapes for diversified lash looks.
Industry executives’ views on key issues in the market
“Currently we are receiving a lot of orders, especially from emerging brands launched by social media influencers. Business has come back, despite the rise in transportation costs and the scarcity of containers. However, the war in Ukraine added a new tension that may also impact the morale of consumers.”
Gotha Cosmetics CEO Paolo Valsecchi
“Despite the uncertainties affecting markets globally, those relating to the supply chain, new lockdowns in China, together with the rising cost of raw materials and energy, the beauty market is expected to grow, with the make-up segment returning to pre-pandemic levels in 2022. All the fundamentals remain globally. The growth of demographic levels and of the per capita consumption of new generations, as well as the increase of purchasing power in large Asian countries and the development of e-commerce and social media channels are all positive factors.”
Intercos President and Founder Dario Ferrari
“The future is about making sure that sustainability is not a separate topic but a way of living, thinking and of producing. Every product we launch is more sustainable than before. Despite the tensions around the supply chain, we remain quite agile as we have a broad network of suppliers. However, the direction we are taking is to bring the supply chain closer to the European region.”
Faber-Castell Cosmetics President – Managing Director Dagmar Chlosta
“We had to apply a double-digit increase to our prices to manage the rising costs of raw materials and transportation. The prices of containers have doubled, tripled and has been multiplied by seven. Inflation may partially reduce the purchasing power of end-consumers, especially in mature countries. However, at the end of the day, the global beauty market will keep growing because the middle class continues to develop in emerging countries.”
HCP Packaging France President Eric Firmin
• The use of wood in primary packaging is on the rise, not only to for caps, but also for make-up and skincare cases. Wood is seen by many as the sustainable material of the future.
• Mono-material solutions that facilitate recycling were much in evidence.
• In the make-up category, blush is making a comeback, especially in vivid colors.
• Hybrid products that associate make-up performance and skincare solutions continue to become more sophisticated, while meeting the need for a more simplified beauty routine.
• Evidence marketing that provides clear and precise information to consumers is gaining an edge over story-telling marketing, which has been much vaunted in the past: Transparency is a key value.
• Air freight is increasingly being used as a substitution to sea freight due to the transportation delays.
• Bigger is more sustainable. The request for 200ml glass jars or bottles is growing.