Innovations & trends from MakeUp in Paris

BW Confidential highlights the innovations presented at the MakeUp in Paris trade show, which took place at the Carrousel du Louvre in the French capital from May 29-30

Key trends at this year’s MakeUp in Paris show included hybrid formulas that change texture upon application, light-reflecting make-up, on-the-go formats and new applicators and gestures for applying product. In addition, there was the ongoing focus on natural ingredients, vegan formulas and of course more sustainable packs.

At this year’s show, the organizers launched the Conscious Beauty Area devoted to sustainability and ethics in beauty products. Also new this year at the Paris edition of the show was Beauty Tank, a platform for entrepreneurs and new brands to present their concepts in pitch sessions and inspired by TV Show Shark Tank.

Some 150 companies exhibited at this year’s MakeUp in Paris trade show. Final visitor numbers were not available.

Innovations on show

German company Geka is moving into the fragrance category with a new applicator for gel format perfumes. The gel format fragrance housed in a thin bottle can be applied using the company’s micro-bristle applicator. Geka says that the bulk reservoir zone in the middle of the applicator ensures a precise dosage of the fragrance gel. The product is designed for on-the-go fragrance usage – a format that is increasingly in demand among consumers. The gel has a silky non-greasy texture and a high concentration of essences for a long-lasting scent.

Geka also presented two mascara brushes and an applicator for lip products. The Catwalk Lashes 2.0 has lamella shaped bristles with a zigzag shape and a double helix brush design to provide volume. The brush claims to separate the lashes providing definition and a ‘lift up effect’. The Feather Brush is angled to resemble and fit the natural shape of the eye. The brush is suitable for balm formulas and for lashes, as well as brows. The lip applicator is called Ballerina, as its shape resembles a ballet shoe. The inclined surface is said to hold the right load of formula and enable precise lip contouring. There is also a pointed tip to easily create lines.

Chromavis Fareva presented Carte Blanche, a new format for color consisting of pressed make-up on a card for on-the-go use. The product is a make-up powder on a paper card, which when activated by water can be applied to the skin. The product, whose technology is patent-pending, means brands can deliver a portable, lightweight and easy-to-use make-up product without traditional packaging. It is also seen as a new way of applying cosmetics. The blank card format is fully customizable and available in various shapes. The prototype is showcased on FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified paper

Chromavis Fareva also unveiled Motif, a powder foundation aimed at consumers who don’t usually like traditional foundation products. When applied, the powder product changes into a creamy texture to offer a natural finish. The foundation is said to blur imperfections, while preserving the skin’s natural look. It has a naturally sourced formula with a complex of ceramides that claims to diminish wrinkles and promote skin elasticity.

Nail products manufacturer Fiabila showcased a number of key areas it has been working on. These include: A gel for professional use, which the company claims is the safest gel with the lowest number of sensitizing agents on the market; formulas that contain up to 90% plant-based ingredients and that are sustainably sourced, and nail skinification, with a number of items that care for the nails and cuticles.

In terms of trends, the company highlighted nail colors and textures inspired by the buzz over gloss in make-up, holographic effects and chrome-like colors. Fiabila also presented nail colors with texturized effects, such as its Jeanious nail polish, which contains cotton particles to evoke the feel of denim.

German company Faber Castell showcased the Moments collection, which it describes as providing an uplifting accent to consumers’ make-up looks. The collection consists of lip, brow, and eye liners, all featuring the same texture with a satiny and matte finish. Each pencil claims to have rich pigmentation and buildable color intensity, while offering a precise application. For example, the soft gliding eyeliner is said to be easy to apply along the waterline. The products come in a new styrene-free alternative for plastic barrels, making them eco-friendly, Faber Castell says.

Korea-based cosmetics manufacturing company CTKClip showcased a number of skincare items with original textures. They included a face mask with a playdough-like texture and candy scent, which CTKClip says doesn’t dry out like actypical face mask thereby providing increased comfort.

Another example was a two-phased body oil containing a layer of oil and a layer of gel, which transforms into a gel texture when shaken before application. The product features a high percentage of oils to remove waterproof make-up.

Also on show for the body was a body conditioner that is meant to be used in the same way as a hair conditioner – that is used in the shower and then washed off. The idea is to replace body lotion, which can feel sticky in summer. The body conditioner is said to be lightweight and retains moisture on the body; it is particularly adapted to men or those who prefer simple routines. In addition, the company presented a body steamer, which provides aromatherapy to help users relax. The product, which is placed on the floor of the shower, is an alternative to the bath bomb (for consumers who do not have a bath) and is particularly aimed at Gen Z. It can be used three times.

In haircare meanwhile, the company showed its scalp drops, which can be used several times during the day as they don’t make the hair greasy. The drops are said to cool the scalp so as to prevent sweat that can make the hair greasy.

In terms of make-up, CTK showcased a clear lip palette containing 12 colors which can be mixed on the transparent lid to produce a total of 144 different shades. The palette comes with two applicators, a scoop and a silicone brush. The company also presented a stick blush with a sponge applicator that is inspired by stamps. CTKClip also showcased a lip stain that first appears as a gloss, but upon drying has a matte finish that is meant to be comfortable on the skin, as well as two foundations, of which one is in a stick format for on-the-go use and with a natural finish meaning it can be applied multiple times throughout the day.

Italy-based manufacturing company MPlus Cosmetics showcased a new product that combines a mascara and eyeliner. The product’s formula uses a synthetic polymer that is said to bridge the gap between the two products, which would typically have different formulas. The product has a single formula in the center with a mascara applicator on one end and an eyeliner applicator on the other. The formula is 80% natural. As a liquid eyeliner, the product claims to be long-lasting and water resistant, while as a mascara, the product is said to tint and lengthen the lashes. MPlus claims it is the first product of its kind on the market.

France-based Anjac Health & Beauty showcased its Aquastick technology developed by its manufacturing company Pascual Cosmetics. The Aquastick is a hybrid stick formula, containing over 40% water, as well as skincare ingredients. Its balm texture is meant to melt into the skin and provide a sensation of freshness. The Acquastick’s minimalist formula and high water content are said to allow for infusions of floral, fruit, glacier or thermal waters, and aqueous active ingredients. It comes in four products: Primer, concealer, foundation and bronzer; a blush and highlighter are also in the works.  Anjac highlights the practicality of the stick format and its multi-functional use.

Italian contract manufacturer Gotha Cosmetics unveiled the Paris Collection. Some 60% of the make-up collection has more than 90% of natural ingredients. The Lush-ious Skin Balm claims to be 99.7% natural and has a balmy texture that melts into the skin once applied. The Ode to Joy lipstick contains 90% natural ingredients and has a creamy, lightweight formula with pigmented color. The lipstick is said to give the effect of plumped lips and to have a long-lasting satin finish. The Bubble Gum Family is described as hybrid face product that combines the lightness of a powder with the melting texture of a cream; its texture is described as being similar to modeling clay or bubble gum. It is said to have a velvety finish with buildable color.

The YouTube-ing Mascara is billed as a new generation of tubing mascaras with volumizing and waterproof properties, but which is at the same are easy to remove using warm water. The formula claims to envelope each lash without clumping or flaking.

Italy-based packaging company Lumson showcased its redesigned airless system called Tag, which comes in glass, aluminum, plastic and paper and in different designs and sizes. It claims to guarantee protection of the formula due to technology inside the container that acts as a barrier from external agents. The containers feature an inner lacquer that is not in contact with the product and can have an ombre or mirror effect. The bottle and the pump of the airless systems can be separated for recycling.

Lumson has also expanded its refillable systems, which are mostly made of PCR glass. The company presented its Eco-Balance range of refillable jars consisting of three parts, which are all made from PP.