BW Confidential reports on new products and trends seen at the Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna show and how industry executives present see the market
After three years of Covid, the Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna trade show’s 2023 edition was back to full form. The show, which took place from March 16-20, welcomed more than 250 000 visitors (265 000 in 2019) from 153 countries and 2,984 exhibitors from 64 countries (+11% versus 2021). Industry players from Asia, especially from China, but also from the Middle East, were back. In the Cosmopack area, exhibitors said the show was a good return on investment with the agendas fully booked. The theme of sustainability was the leitmotiv. And despite the uncertainties linked to the economic and geo-political situation, the mood was one of cautious optimism.
Seen in show
Germany-based Faber-Castell showcased its new rechargeable mechanical pencil. According to the company, the pencil means less waste and is therefore a more sustainable option. The casing can be re-used at will by inserting a new cartridge, thereby enabling users to vary applications between lips, eyes, brows, and colors. Two vegan and clean textures are available.
Italian company Pink Frogs introduced Planet &People Shampoo (PPS), which it claims is the first liquid sprayable shampoo. The product was rewarded by the Cosmopack Award in the Best Formula haircare category. PPS features 95.2% ingredients of natural origin and is presented as a concentrated solution in a 50ml eco-refill to be diluted with water in a 200ml reusable bottle in 100% r-Pet. The packaging and label have been designed to facilitate use for visually impaired consumers and those with poor fine motor skills. PPS is the result of an all-round supply chain project aimed at maximum sustainability and inclusion.
Italy-based Berlin Packaging-Premi Industries unveiled its Airglass Refill & Go with a minimalist design and Airglass Slim Refill & Go, a slender premium version. Both combine airless packaging inside a refillable glass bottle, and thanks to a bayonet mechanism, consumers can separate the Airless PP bottle from the glass bottle. When on the go, users can carry only the refill. Its pump can be blocked by a safety clip and be re-used up to 25 times.
German company Schwan Cosmetics launched its Pure concealer collection with two lines described as skincare-color-cosmetics hybrids, formulated with clean and natural ingredients. The Pure On-The-Glow Concealer with a cushion sponge applicator and The Pure-Easy-Peasy-Glow with a dip applicator claim to have moisturizing and anti-under-eye-bag and smoothing effects. A wide range of colors is available to match all skin tones.
Germany-based Geka, which returned to Cosmoprof this year, showcased what it claims are the first mascara and eyebrow brushes produced with post-consumer recycled fibers. Brushes in the new range feature 65% recycled PET or PTB. Five shapes are available depending on the effect on the lashes, including curvature, lengthening, volume and lash definition.
Italy-based Chromavis (Fareva group), which says its ambition is to “become the most disruptive and responsible make-up creator’, presented its new make-up and nail collections under the Metasenso concept. The Page One powder, selected as a finalist for the Cosmopack Awards, is described by the company as a bridge product. This powder becomes creamy when applied and contains hydrating ingredients, natural oils, butters, and waxes, to deliver a moisturizing sensation. Page One is available in multiple finishes, including foundation, blush, eye shadow, and highlighter versions.
Aptar Beauty showcased its mono-material and omni-channel lotion pump called Future. It is 100% polyethylene and fully recyclable with PET and PE bottles. It complies with e-commerce constraints and boasts an on/off locking system with a double-click sound. It has been designed so that only the dip tube is visible. Aptar also showcased sampling solutions from iD SCENT, the company it acquired earlier this year.
Primary packaging company Baralan showed new 30ml and 50ml Inner Cups to be used as refillable solutions for its Maria jars series. They can be produced with alternative eco-friendly materials, such as biobased, PCR, or organic scraps in Baralan’s manufacturing facility in Italy. This reduces lead times and tighter control over production, according to the company.
German beauty tech Geske presented its range of 65 tech beauty tools. This included a Hello Kitty app-guided sonic facial brush for facial cleansing and firming, which had strong visibility at the company’s large open booth. The product comes in 11 colors, and an app helps to determine the individual beauty routines. It is set to launch this summer.
SNAPSHOT: Key trends from the show
Heard at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna: Industry views on the state of the market
“We are cautiously confident about the beauty market. But while the market is resilient, we – including our customers and co-suppliers – are operating under a more uncertain environment. Inflation persists but it is affecting different parts of the supply chain than we originally anticipated. While the costs of energy and raw materials are down in the short term, there is higher salary inflation, especially in Europe, which is impacting manufacturing costs. Markets like glass and chemicals are still impacting costs for brand owners.”
Aptar Beauty President Emea Xavier Susterac
“2022 has been a super, but strenuous year. The increased cost of energy and the supply chain uncertainties are challenging. In Germany, another big issue is the staffing shortage. Consumption is increasing, but inflation leaves consumers with less money to spend. We need to understand what they can afford and also response to their demands in terms of sustainability.”
Faber-Castell Cosmetics President-Managing Director Dagmar Klosta President
“To guarantee business continuity, as we have an international dimension, we produce where it is more convenient for our customers. We produce in Europe to serve Europe and in Asia to serve Asia. It is a way to shorten delivery times.”
Berlin Packaging Premi Industries CEO Beauty Emea Alessandro Prestini
“Glass prices continue to increase as there is high demand and a shortage. The cost went up 30% in 2022, and it is again +30% in 2023. For surlyn, the situation has returned to normal and the prices of aluminum are beginning to decrease.”
Coverpla President Bruno Diepois
The Cosmoprof Awards
The Cosmoprof & Cosmpack Awards 2023 were held on March 17 during the Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna show at a gala evening at the Palazzo Re Enzo in Bologna. The Awards recognized 13 beauty innovations among 690 candidates from Cosmoprof and Cosmopack exhibitors. BW Confidential was media partner of the awards.
The Cosmoprof Awards featured seven prizes in the categories of: skincare, make-up, haircare, nail products, personal care and body care products, home & professional devices and tools and green & organic.
The Cosmopack Awards featured six prizes in the categories of: skincare formula, make-up formula, haircare formula, packaging design & materials, innovation technology and sustainability.
The winners were selected by a jury of industry experts, trend agencies, opinion leaders, journalists and international influencers.
Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna factfile:
Took place: Bologna, Italy
Cosmopack: March 16-18, 2023
Cosmoprof: March 17-20, 2023
No of exhibitors: 2,984, +11% vs 2021
No of visitors: 250,000