BW Confidential reports on what stood out at the 16th edition of the Esxence fragrance show, which took place from June 3-6 at the Allianz MiCo Milano Convention Centre in Milan, Italy
This year’s Esxence show was the biggest yet, with more than 400 brands exhibiting, including 108 new brands across an expanded exhibition space.
There was a diverse mix of exhibitors, with more than 40 countries represented, including many brands from Asia and the Middle East.
The show saw a strong turnout of buyers and distributors, as well as executives from major fragrance houses and perfumers, and attracted 20,000 visitors in all, compared to 13,500 last year. Organizers also noted a growing number of visitors under the age of 30, and said that tickets for the days open to the general public sold out in advance.
Brands and visitors at the show remarked on the high number of new niche fragrance companies coming to the market. While some warned that the niche fragrance market may soon see a contraction, others pointed out that category continues to expand in certain markets, particularly Asia, which will continue to fuel growth.
In terms of trends, food-inspired ingredients, such as rice, milk, and mint, continued to be a strong theme at the show. This trend was reflected in many of the brands’ booth designs. For example, Korean brand Borntostandout’s stand had a café theme, Avau’s resembled a kitchen, Esse Strikes The Notes had a display full of bananas to present its extrait de parfum Naked Banana, and Insenf’s new collection was inspired by gastronomy.
In addition, green, clean and fresh notes, such as linen, musk, and herbaceous accords were popular in new minimalist compositions. Gourmand scents were much in evidence, especially those with vanilla, and fruity notes. There were also interesting uses of ingredients such as sake, kombucha, matcha, yuzu and chrysanthemum.
BW Confidential was media partner of the event and exhibited with a booth, while the May-June Magazine was widely distributed at the show.
Seen in show
Korean fragrance brand Borntostandout had, once again this year, one of the busiest booths at the show. The brand showcased its Fine Fragrance Coffee Collection, which includes an Extrait de Café and a Fine Fragrance Toothpaste. Founder and Creative Director Jun Lim says the toothpaste is part of the brand’s strategy to expand beyond perfumery and into lifestyle categories where fragrance can play a bigger role than it does currently.
Borntostandout also previewed a Sephora-exclusive fragrance called Cola Addict, which comes in a white bottle, and a Harrods-exclusive scent called Golden Milk, which comes in a green bottle.
Amsterdam-based brand Fugazzi was one of the most popular booths at Esxence, with visitors queuing to use a vending machine dispensing complimentary samples. The brand showcased its new launch Pomegranoudh, a woody, fruity scent that brings together notes of pomegranate and oud. The extrait de parfum features 30% fragrance concentration and is said to be long-lasting.
Family-owned German brand Birkholz Perfumes presented two new fragrances for its Italian collection, Verona and Napoli, which launched in April. The launch of Verona is accompanied by a Romeo and Juliet-themed campaign, which was extended to the design of the brand’s booth.
The brand launched at the UK at department store Selfridges this year and also expanded to China; last year, it launched in Brazil with its fragrance Sol e Samba dedicated to Rio de Janeiro. The brand is looking to open stores in London, Dubai and Paris, as well as in China. Co-founder and Perfumer Philip Birkholz says there is demand from retailers for country-exclusive collections. He adds that the brand is also focusing on collaborations – it partnered with Porsche last year.
African brand Scent of Africa presented its new fragrance duo, Anancy and Assaye, which launched in May. The duo represents the fifth “chapter” of the brand’s Eternal Legends collection, which now comprises 10 scents. Scent of Africa’s fragrances are housed in bottles inspired by the shape of the African continent, designed by Swiss-Ghanaian architect Kurt Merki Jr. The brand includes at least one ingredient from Africa in all of its fragrances. Its fragrances are priced at €86 for 50ml.
The brand, launched in 2016, was revamped in 2022 and is sold in 14 countries in Africa and now plans to expand to new markets, with a launch in London this month. It is also launching e-commerce next month, initially mainly for European customers.
The company says that African brands are increasingly gaining a platform, as exhibitions like Esxence expand, and adds that the popularity of Middle Eastern fragrances has helped raise the profile of African fragrances.
Chinese brand Voice from the Sky exhibited at Esxence for the first time this year. The brand uses ingredients not typically found in perfumery, such as natural extract of wool – a new ingredient that came out last year – shiso, green tangerine, and elements used in traditional Chinese medicine. The brand showcased its new launch Tough Berry, a strawberry fragrance. Voice from the Sky Co-founder Wendy Chan says the brand doesn’t use Chinese imagery or concepts, but still aims to convey an Asian touch. She notes that the brand has its own perfumer, unlike other Chinese labels.
Qatari-owned brand Reinvented Parfums presented its two new fragrances: Aether Aura, and Luna Reverie. Reinvented Parfums says Aether Aura marks a new olfactive direction for the brand, introducing a floral-fruity composition, which it describes as more luminous and electric.
Dubai-based brand Ajmal presented Aristocrat Blanche and Aristocrat Noir, its new additions to the Aristocrat collection. The brand also showcased its Signature Collection. Ajmal revealed at the show that it would open a store at Westfield London in the UK in July. The brand said that the situation in the UAE is improving, but that the price of ingredients has increased.
Korean fragrance brand Pesade continues its international expansion, having just opened a store in Milan, Italy. The brand aims to further expand in cities across Europe, the UK, the US, and the Middle East. Pesade launched a collection targeting the Middle Eastern market. Fragrance Product Developer & Brand Manager Hyungu Kang says Korean fragrance brands are growing fast and becoming more popular.
Hong-Kong based Tobba presented two new launches, Asura and Musc Albedo, to be launched in August. Co-founder Jasper Li noted an increase in new fragrance brands from China and Hong Kong. Tobba will launch two new fragrances next year with ingredients that reflect its identity as a Hong-Kong based brand.
Australian brand Map of the Heart previewed its 10th fragrance, V10 Frisson, which launches in September. The fragrances come in bottles that resemble an anatomical heart. Creative Director Imogen Darling-Blair says that as prices of fragrance, in particular niche fragrance have risen, there is a need for more affordable products and that she is focusing on offering value. The brand’s fragrances retail for €175 ($200).
Eternal on the Chinese fragrance market
Chinese distribution company Eternal Group held a seminar with the theme of ‘Paving the Way to China Fragrance Market’. The seminar coincides with the launch of a guidebook called ‘China Market Entry Blueprint’, which aims to help international fragrance brands gain a deeper understanding about the Chinese fragrance market. Wendy Lau, Executive Director, Eternal Group, said China is one of the world’s fastest-growing fragrance markets, shaped by a new generation of consumers and the digital ecosystem.
Eternal states that the niche fragrance segment in China gained 13 percentage points of market share between 2024 and 2025, rising from 25% to 38% (+52% relative growth). It adds that this growth is five times faster than that of the mass prestige fragrance segment and is driven by demand among Gen Z for individuality and exclusivity.
The Chinese fragrance market overall was valued at more than Rmb30bn ($4.41bn) in 2025, according to Eternal. The company says it has surpassed Japan to become the largest fragrance market in the Asia-Pacific region. The Chinese fragrance market is expected to reach Rmb44bn ($6.47bn) by 2028.
Eternal says that over 40% of Chinese consumers choose a scent based on mood or occasion, not on brand or price. It adds that consumers are actively seeking niche scents, uniqueness and emotional connection.
The company underliens that China is not a single market and that each city has its own consumer culture, which needs to be taken into account when entering the market. For example, Hong Kong consumers are typically bilingual and mature fragrance users (91% are regular fragrance users), while Macau is tourism-driven and characterized by high-spending travelers. Mainland China, on the other hand, is driven by young urban consumers (Gen Z), with a rising share of male fragrance users. Eternal says Hong Kong and Macau are ideal entry points for brands before scaling into Mainland China.
In terms of trends, the company says tea was the most-searched fragrance note in China in 2025, overtaking floral notes. It adds that consumers are increasingly seeking fresh, culturally resonant scents over classic Western profiles.
Eternal highlighted the importance of Red Note as a fragrance discovery platform, in addition to Douyin (TikTok). It says Red Note users are searching for “niche fragrance”, “unique scent” and “mood fragrance”.
