Longevity, well-aging, as well as the impact of fragrance on mood, sleep and mental health, were key themes at this year’s in-cosmetics Global trade show, which took place in Paris from April 14-16.
At the show’s Fragrance Zone, where BW Confidential was exclusive media partner, ingredient suppliers and fragrance houses showcased a range of new formulations and delivery systems.
This year’s show also saw the debut of the Inner Beauty Zone, a new area that sought to address the key trend in the industry of bridging beauty and nutraceuticals. It featured gummies, drinks, powders and capsules targeting slow-aging, hyperpigmentation, hydration, and stimulated skin cell production, using ingredients such as collagen, vitamin C, astaxanthin, ashwagandha and turmeric.
In line with the beauty-from-within trend was the in-cosmetics Global Nutricosmetics Ingredient Index, which launched at the event, and sought to offer a snapshot of key ingredients in the category.
BW Confidential highlights some of the ingredients, technologies and scent concepts uncovered at the show.
IFF focused on scents with wellness benefits, developed through its Science of Wellness program, which researches the effects of fragrance on human emotions and wellbeing.
The company highlighted its Metasleep scent solutions, which are designed to enhance relaxation and promote better sleep. The company partnered with SleepScore Labs to test the impact of certain scents on sleep using non-invasive and biometric sleep tracking technology. Citing figures from Euromonitor, IFF says that 80% of people would like to improve their overall sleep quality, and added that according to Google, the term ‘sleep’ is five times more searched for than mental health, and two times more searched for than diet.
The company also showed scents designed with Metamood, which combines consumer perception data, neuroscience and AI-guided creation to deliver emotional benefits. IFF underlines that its solutions go beyond the main emotions associated with fragrances of relaxation, energy and happiness, to include self-indulgence, reassurance, comfort and optimism.
IFF’s booth also featured natural fragrance ingredients from the LMR Active Essences collection, known for adaptogenic and nootropic benefits and skincare and haircare properties.
Longevity was the key theme at the Symrise booth. The company showcased Cellexora MD, which delivers exosomes derived from upcycled organic apple side streams for skin regeneration. The company says the ingredient supports collagen production, contributing to improvements in skin firmness, elasticity and resilience. It adds that clinical data shows a reduction in visible signs of aging, including wrinkle length, depth, and volume within 30 days of use.
The company also presented Mindera Euca, a 100% plant-based solution for rinse-off applications, which it says creates a dense, rich foam, including in sulphate-free systems. The company says the ingredient helps brands elevate rinse-off cleansing routines into wellness-focused rituals
Symrise also used the show to present its newly created Care & Wellness division. As reported, Symrise created the division in March to meet the rising demand for health, wellbeing and beauty products. The division is part of the Scent & Care segment and focuses on topical, ingestible and inside and outside beauty concepts. With its Care & Wellness division, Symrise says it is transitioning from traditional category-led offerings to a more integrated care model.
Cosmo International Fragrances unveiled a fragrance collection inspired by the circus called Cirque des Merveilles and intended to connect the wearer with their emotional state and enhance well-being. The collection, which featured applications across personal care, fine fragrance and air care, is organized around four acts: energy, balance, calm and joy.
Each application features an exclusive ingredient or technology developed by the company. Ingredients highlighted included: Ginger Peru CO2, Petitgrain Lime Colombia Oil, Golden Berry Upcycled Colombia CO2, Jasmine Craftivity and the Cacao Blanc Craftivity.
“Our work with mood-tested ingredients allows us to design fragrances that intentionally support emotional responses,” said Anne-Laure André, Project Manager for the Natural Ingredients Division at Cosmo International Fragrances.
The company also presented AquaElixir, its 100% water-based technology for alcohol-free fragrances. This green technology is said to have skin-friendly properties. In addition, it showcased ScentBloom Biodegradable, a 100% biodegradable solvent blend.
Expressions Parfumées highlighted its new fragrance technology that combines scent with anti-aging actives, thereby providing formulators with a functional role for fragrance. Called AgeAura, the patent-pending technology integrates anti-aging algae actives into the fragrance concentrate without altering texture, fragrance profile or stability. Expression Parfumées says that this means that the fragrance becomes a dual-benefit ingredient with sensorial and scientifically substantified skin benefits. It adds that this meets consumer demand for simplified beauty routines, by using fewer, but more purposeful products. In addition, it responds to the trend among formulators to shorten their formulas, as consumers are also paying closer attention to INCI lists.
AgeAura combines a fragrance compound and a deodorized seaweed extracts blend, which is said to provide anti-aging even at a low concentration. The ingredient was developed through an R&D partnership between Expressions Parfumées and experts in bioactive algae extracts. The company claims that the technology ensures anti-aging bioactivity even at a usual fragrance dosage (from 0.5%-1% of fragrance in finished products); the low dosage offers an advantage for clean beauty and is also cost effective. AgeAura is claimed to provide smoother skin, reduced wrinkles, improved firmness, elasticity and antioxidant activity, as well as a reduction in dark spots.
Expressions Parfumées incorporated the AgeAura technology into a Longevity Collection, which it describes as a complete well-aging line. It concludes a night serum, night balm, serum, body firming serum with a glitter effect and a smoothing body serum.
Spain-based Eurofragance showcased Euromotion, its technology designed to strengthen the connection between olfaction and emotions. Central to the technology is the company’s’ proprietary ingredient, Euphorion, which has a refreshing profile. Eurofragance says that Euphorion combined with mood-boosting ingredients enhances their intensity. The company presented five fragrances, with each expressing a different emotion (balance, confidence, attraction, focus and joy) across different textures and formats (shampoo, hair & body mist and shower gel).
Iberchem’s booth had a bookstore concept, intended to reflect the trend of ink in niche perfumery. The company showcased four fragrances with four ink profiles, which could be tested by painting the fragrance onto the blotter with a paintbrush.
The booth also featured a coffee shop, which presented Iberchem’s new gourmand collection, including a matte latte shower gel, caramel body cream, as well as cream latte and mocha latte body mists. The cream latte body mist uses the company’s NovaSilk technology, which creates alcohol-free fragrances with a milky or pearlescent appearance. The mocha latte body mist uses Iberchem’s microemulsion technology NovaSilk Clear, which creates alcohol-free fragrances while maintaining a transparent appearance.
Argeville presented a collection of seven fragrances across applications based on the concept of a time capsule, in response to the nostalgia trend. A cream that transforms into an oil upon application represented the 1920s and featured a chypre floral fragrance; it was created by Jérôme Brédillet. A shimmery after-sun mist inspired by the 1970s claimed to both hydrate and fragrance the skin, with a scent by Marie-Cécile Dor. An eau de parfum intense represented the 1980s and was created by Valérie Bessone. A scalp scrub paid tribute to the 2000s, with a fragrance by Vanessa Prudent. A skin and hair cream was inspired by the present, with a fragrance by Laurent Marrone developed in collaboration with chemical manufacturer Seppic. It claims to hydrate both the skin and hair with a clean formulation. Representing the future was a shimmer body mist featuring a woody, leathery scent by Mathilde Haguier. Also inspired by the future was a shower gel stick with a hybrid floral fruit scent by Antoine Cotton.
Parfex’s booth had a futuristic theme inspired by the scientific or medical aspect of beauty. It showcased personal-care products based on three trends: metabolic beauty, chameleon beauty and authentic care. Metabolic beauty describes the transformation of skincare and haircare into biological tools, whereby the skin and hair become biomarkers of health and vitality. For this trend, Parfex presented a face serum with a fruity floral fragrance by Floriane Delavet encapsulated in microspheres within the serum. A longevity-focused sunscreen combines active ingredients to target pigmentation and signs of aging with a niche-inspired fine fragrance – a floral woody scent by Alexandre Vire. A hair mask features a floral fruity fragrance by Marine Jacolin. The three products are said to provide energy and wellbeing using Iberchem’s Wavemotion technology.
The chameleon beauty trend is about personal transformation and playful experimentation, with a focus on both effectiveness and sensoriality. For this trend, Parfex showcased a peel-off face mask that transforms from a powder into a gel upon mixing it with water. The mask has a floral powdery fragrance by Marine Jacolin. A shower slime features a floral amber fragrance by Alexandre Vire, which is diffused using Iberchem’s NeoLift technology.
The authentic care trend is about transforming beauty routines into daily well-being rituals. For this trend, Parfex presented an all-over cream deodorant, which neutralizes malodors using Iberchem’s technology VernovaPure. The citrus aromatic fragrance by Alexandre Vire is said to diffuse more effectively using Iberchem’s encapsulation technology Vernova Touch. Shampoo cards with a paper-like texture clean the hair when combined with water. The product features a floral green 100% natural fragrance by Lucie Lopez. A solid shaving bar has a fougere ambery scent by Jean-François Thizon.
Biotech startup Byome Labs showcased its B2B biotech platform called Byome Derma for dermo-cosmetic and pharma brands. The platform tests and analyzes consumers’ skin, scalp, oral and vaginal microbiome. It includes a microbiome testing kit that can be used at the point of sale or at the consumer’s home. Once the testing kit is completed, an app takes a photo of the kit and interprets the results, providing a profile of the consumer’s microbiome in under five minutes. It can also track the evolution of their microbiome over time. The app recommends products from brands that are the most suitable for the person’s microbiome using an AI-powered algorithm developed with dermatologists. The analysis and recommended products are emailed to the consumer.
Phytobiotech company Naemos presented its six active ingredients developed using indoor farming and its elicitation technology platform called Elite, which controls the growth parameters of plants to improve their quality. The company uses in-house extraction processes that it claims are eco-responsible, using only water and no petrochemical solvents, as well as solar-powered energy. Naemos received two in-cosmetics Global awards for its ingredients Shisome – which is said to protect the skin’s microbiome for increased resilience and longevity – and Synatis – which is claimed to preserve the health of the neurocutaneous system to address signs of aging. The company’s other ingredients are Niaskin, a natural niacinamide that aims to brighten skin; Calmelys, which is said to soothe and comfort sensitive skin; Sunglower, which aims to increase skin’s glow with sunflower microgreens; and Scapilya for anti-dandruff and scalp health recovery.