The 2023 edition of the PCD trade show, part of Paris Packaging Week, confirmed its place a key hub for the beauty packaging community. The show floor was packed during the two-day event (January 25-26), with the mood reflecting the dynamism of the beauty category
BW Confidential highlights the key talking points and innovations from the show
Key talking points from PCD
The market. Despite political and economic uncertainty, exhibitors are optimistic about 2023, following the solid performance of the beauty market last year. Fragrance is expected to continue to see strong growth, despite concerns over a slight slowdown in the US, and the category is set to benefit from heightened interest in Asia. After seeing a comeback in 2022, make-up is expected to stabilize this year, while the re-opening of China is forecast to lift skincare. In terms of the general macro-economic environment, most predict that key markets will escape a recession (reflecting a growing consensus on the issue from economists), but that growth will nonetheless be weak.
The energy crisis. The rising cost of energy has been sharply felt by packaging companies, especially glassmakers. The crisis has forced many companies to speed up their review of energy reduction policies. However, many pointed out that the industry has been fortunate that the energy crisis has hit at a time when the beauty market is seeing strong growth, thereby softening the blow. But they nonetheless point out that higher energy costs have impacted margins. The re-opening of the Chinese market and ensuing increased energy demand may push prices higher again this year, and is a cause for concern.
China. The market in China remains complicated currently, especially when it comes to manning factories in certain regions. However, most are preparing for a growth surge towards the end of the year, as a result of the government lifting its zero-Covid policy. This growth is expected to benefit the skincare category especially, but also fragrance. It may also put increased pressured on sourcing, supply chains and prices (see point on energy crisis above).
Lead times. Glassmakers especially note that they are fully booked for the whole year 2023. As a result, securing production at key glass manufacturers is particularly difficult for smaller brands. Some smaller players complain that production lines have been “monopolized“ by the major groups.
Supply. While the supply-chain crisis has eased, securing ingredients and materials continues to be problematic for beauty suppliers, which is causing delays and bottlenecks at some companies.
Refills. While refills have been around for some time, they were a key point of focus at this year’s show and have taken on increased importance. They can be seen in almost all categories, especially fragrance, but also increasingly in make-up, for items such as lipstick. While consumer uptake remains relatively slow, packagers are doing more in this area in a bid to anticipate the possible impact future regulation on single-use items.
Less packaging. The idea of producing less packaging remains a talking point, but is still far from what can be seen on the market. However, as cosmetics packaging comes in for more scrutiny, packagers will likely be forced to do more in this area.
Regulations. In line with this increased scrutiny, packagers are looking to anticipate future regulation, especially in terms of single-use items or the use of certain chemicals, and come up with solutions before they are forced to by law.
Innovations seen at PCD
Germany-based Heinz Glas showcased its refillable glass jar concept All4One. For the show, the company presented the latest version of the concept featuring a perfume insert in magenta (Pantone’s color for 2023) and with a glitter effect.
The company claims that the concept is different to other refillable options on the market as the entire product, including the refill insert, is made of glass, meaning it is recyclable. The concept is based on a glass jar in which four interchangeable glass inserts can be used depending on the product application – make-up, cream lotion and home fragrance. The lightweight glass refill inserts are also said to be adapted to travel and on-the-go use. The outer jar can be decorated to either hide or highlight the inner jar.
Heinz Glas also showed two new shapes in its standard range. The Yarrow bottle has straight lines and large panels, offering a sizeable printing area for customization, as well as a thick base. The Yuzu bottle was inspired by the shape of a cat’s eye and fits in the palm of the hand. In terms of sustainability, it has a screw neck.
Arcade Beauty presented a range of fragrances displayed at a Perfume Bar at the show. The range included three new formulas without alcohol and intended to offer new fragrance gestures: The Silky Gel format, which comes in a bottle with an applicator and is aimed at targeted application (the formula can be customized with pigments or glitter); Fragrance Oil, a concentrated version of an EdP without an alcohol base with a dropper, and intended for those with sensitive skin, and Stick-to-Powder, a fragrance in a cream format that changes to a light powder upon application. The company also showcased two alcohol-based formulas: A Body Mist, a light fragrance intended as fragrance touch-up throughout the day, and a Hair Mist, a transparent mist that claims to provide shine and softness with a fragrance that lasts up to eight hours without weighing down the hair.
Bormioli Luigi unveiled its Tango lipstick project made from glass and wood, as part of the Italian company’s strategy to expand its glass offer in the make-up category. Bormioli Luigi teamed up with sustainable packaging specialist Minelli for the project. The lipstick is made from an FSC-certified wooden base with a glass cap. The wood represents naturality and sustainability, while the glass is intended to convey a premium positioning. A full-service solution, the lipstick can be personalized with a choice of wood (beech, ash, maple) and finishings (natural varnish, stain, metallization, standard and bespoke colors). The central ring is made from bio-plastic and features a removable click mechanism. It is also assembled without glue so that all of its parts can be separated for recycling.
Orlandi showed The Scent Toy, from its partner company, Brazilian scent tech Noar. The Scent Toy is a connected device in the shape of a small doll and diffuses a fragrance upon reception of a text message or an emoji from a friend anywhere in the world. The Scent Toy uses dry-air digital scent technology and works using wi-fi or Bluetooth. The fragrance in the toy can be refilled and changed. The device can be personalized – the Scent Toy shown at PCD was decorated by Brazilian artist Luiza Gottschalk.
Aptar Beauty showcased its solutions for fragrance without alcohol. This included Aqua Silk, a pump made for a fine homogenous diffusion of water-based perfumes. The pump is said to deliver a delicate and gradual diffusion for what Aptar calls an enveloping, yet non-wet sensation. Aptar showed the pump using a patented alcohol-free formula created by fragrance house Givaudan. Also in the area of non-alcohol-based perfumes, the company presented its Inune pump using Neovix Biosciences’ WPE technology (Water in Plant), which enables the dispersion of the (oily) composition of a perfume in pure water without using alcohol or solvents.
US-based labeling company Avery Dennison sought to show how brands can use sustainable labels while maintaining a luxury look for their products, and at the same time exploit connected labels to communciate a sustainability message. The company (in conjunction with partner companies (ESTAL, Favini, Grafical, Luxoro-KURZ and O,nice! Design Studio) showcased two concepts: Elements, to highlight its sustaianble labels, and Once Upon a Time, intended to tackle stereotpes and illustrate inclusivity. The Elements concept comprised six prototypes showing sustainable labels, using for example waste products from cotton or sugar cane. The prototype labels provide extra digital content when scanned, using Avery Dennison Smartrac digital identification solutions.
The Once upon A Time concept, aimed specifically at beauty comapnies, showcased seven prototypes that take inspiration from fairytales. Each prototype turns a traditional fairytale on its head to highlight social and inclusion issues, such as ageism and body positivity. This included a bottle illustrating the Rapunzel fairy tale and the theme of ageism, and the Pinocchio story associated with the idea of honesty and social media.
Italian company Fedrigoni presented the Materia Viva Metamorphosis range, a line of new-generation paper items intended as an alternative to plastic. For example, they include paper that is anti-fingerprint, scratchproof and greaseproof, thereby avoiding the need to include a plastic film. The range also features anti-mould paper packaging (for soaps for example), the use of translucent paper to create the effect of a ‘see-through window’ that has traditionally been made from plastic, and inner paper product supports for gift boxes.
Albéa showed a number of items in line with its strategy to reduce the environmental impact of packaging. At Albéa Tubes, the focus was on weight reduction and the integration of recycled plastic to meet future regulations. This includes EcoFusion Top, a two-in-one opening and closing system designed to “visualize” material savings.
Albéa also presented a range of refillable and recycling-ready packs. They include: Twirl, a refillable cosmetic jar that is easy to refill and uses recyclable materials (PET cap and base and PP cup); Minimal Chic, a refillable, mono-material 100% polypropylene compact, making it recycling-ready (it is also metal-free); Breizhstick, a four-piece polypropylene guided stick that is suited to creamy balm formulas and is recycling-ready.
Glassmaker Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie highlighted its standard Classic Slim bottle, which has been used by Swiss skincare brand La Colline for its new NativAge Oil.The Classic Slim is a thin cylindrical bottle with a volume of 30ml. The company also created the decoration for the bottle using three finishing processes: a crystal gold spray upon which a pinkish/gold hot stamping of the brand name, ‘La Colline’, was applied; silk-screen printing to apply brown tones to the back of the bottle, and a final layer of varnish to create a shiny appearance and protect the decoration. Stoelze is looking to grow its business in the skincare and cosmetics segment. Stoelzle also won a PCD award for the refillable bottle it produced for the Dries Van Noten (Puig) eau de parfum.
France-based Coverpla showed new formats of its existing lines aimed at providing more refillable options. This year the company introduced a 100ml format with a screw neck to its Gala range, allowing it to be easily refilled. Coverpla also noted that its Tess mini-bottle in a 15ml format is in demand from brands, given its travel, on-the-go size and its use for gifting.