BW Confidential reports on key talking points and innovations from Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2025, which took place in Italy from March 20-23.
Despite the uncertain economic and geopolitical climate, which was a key talking point, Cosmoprof’s show floor was buzzing. Attendance at this year’s event rose 4.5% compared to 2024 to reach 255,000 executives from 150 countries. Some 3,100 exhibitors were at the show, representing more than 10,000 brands from 65 countries.
In the Cosmopack area, the trend towards diversification was much in evidence. For example, make-up specialist Ancorotti revealed it had established a new perfume division in partnership with Euroitalia, and that through the acquisition of Cosmoproject, has also moved into skincare. Meanwhile, skincare packaging specialist Lumson launched its first collection of perfume bottles.
Other key trends at the show included:
– The demand for fragrance and skincare that act as mood enhancers/inducers continues, with a focus on energy-boosting and wellbeing products, as well as items with links to meditation or claims to induce happiness.
– Skinification of make-up is the new normal and now covers almost all product categories, resulting in anti-wrinkle lipsticks, nail polish with anti UVA-UVB SPF50 and hydrating powders.
– The boom in body mists was a major theme at the event, especially body mists or fragrances that claim to add cosmetic benefits to scent.
– Pillow fragrance sprays are a rising segment, as are fragrances for laundry.
– Simplification of make-up removal – easier ways of removing cosmetics could be seen at many booths, with products such as mascara that can be removed with water, UV nail gels that peel off in one layer, or nail polish remover in a tube or a pen format.
– In skincare, the trend for products that mimic aesthetic procedures was widespread, in addition to items that target specific areas of the face, such as eyebrows, lips and expression lines.
– Solutions to make refilling products simpler and more intuitive was a key focus among packagers, especially for fragrances and make-up.
Talking heads: Executive views on the market
“Despite a scenario marked by uncertainties, tariffs, and a general market slowdown, we believe that in 2025, we will again grow at a higher rate than the global market, whose growth is estimated at 4%. Our strong presence in the US with local production plants is an important advantage, allowing us to maintain cost competitiveness. As for the Chinese market, Intercos recorded a 28% increase in 2024, stemming from the expansion of our share of wallet with existing customers, and from the organic growth of local customers. Indeed, in a slightly contracting overall market, local brands have gained market share at the expense of international brands.” Intercos CEO Renato Semerari
“We live in a very complicated political and economic situation, with the acceleration of protectionism and populism and the increase in debt to finance re-armament in Europe. There is no visibility. The rebound of prestige after de-stocking could stop at any moment. Will we have a decrease in consumption in Europe? That is the question. Premium luxury brands show no signs of panic due to extra tariffs [on products for the US]. The slowdown of imports in China will have more impact, although it is a bit early to determine the impact. However, Aptar remains a solid business and continues to invest successfully in innovation.” Aptar Emea President Xavier Susterac
“We are observing what is happening in the US and we’ll see what can be done. We plan to acquire our own factory there to produce make-up and to enter skincare. In China, we own two plants that produce for Chinese and international brands. Chinese brands may also potentially expand in Europe.” Gotha Cosmetics CEO Paolo Valsecchi
“Despite the geopolitical issues, people will continue to buy beauty products. However, in the last two quarters of 2024, there has been a slowdown in sales, which has continued into the first quarter of 2025. All international brands are impacted by the slowdown of sales in China. However, the Chinese market remains dynamic for local brands. The question is whether the desirability of French or American cosmetic brands will be maintained in China. As for the question of 25% tariffs [for the US], it is consumers who will be penalized with price increases.” HCP Packaging France President Eric Firmin
“We expect stable results in 2025, as European countries are mostly going through difficult times. We are mapping the market to identify medium/small companies with solid values to prospect them and not be excessively dependent on large groups.” Berlin Packaging Beauty Managing Director (EMEA) Vivien Charrey
Innovations seen in show
German company Geka celebrated its 100-year anniversary at the show by presenting The Golden Grace make-up collection, inspired by 1920s Art Deco patterns.
The company also put the focus on Roctool Heat & Cool Technology, an induction molding method that produces precise, detailed and glossy packaging for applicators in a sustainable way. The technology incorporates an induction network into the mold surface which heats the mold for optimal material flow and can produce detailed high-gloss decorations on standard plastic or PCR. This eliminates the need for subsequent decoration, such as lacquering or metallization, saving time and resources. The company adds that with better material flow, quality issues typically associated with injection molding, such as sink marks, visible weld lines and defects are eliminated, and that the precise surface replication of Roctool means reduced rejects, less waste and no reworking. Roctool produces glossy finishes and intense black, while complex holographic effects and intricate 3D structures can be incorporated. Recessed and raised reliefs are also possible.
Italy-based Chromavis (Fareva) showcased Dynaverse, its new collection that claims to combine make-up performance with skincare and mood-boosting benefits. In the collection, the Sheer Dream vegan creamy nail polish remover received the Cosmopack Make-Up Award. The nail polish remover is a solid-to-balm product and comes in a pen format and is therefore billed as practical for on-the-go use. The semi-solid texture melts upon contact with the nail, to dissolve polish while nourishing and protecting the nails. It releases a 100% natural solvent and contains care ingredients like avocado oil and vitamin E.
Italy-based Gotha Cosmetics celebrated its 20th anniversary with the Red Pantone 186C as a signature color for all of the year’s launches. The new collection of 24 products includes: Tubby-ing waterproof mascara, which wraps each lash like a tube, but is easily removable with warm water; the 4K Lipblush, a liquid lipstick with high pay off but no drying effect; the Bubble Gum Absolute Glow-rifier, a hybrid formula, cream or powder, with an imperceptible texture and fine pearls to create a luminous effect.
Milan-based Berlin Packaging Beauty, presented its AirLight Refill, a new collection of refillable airless packaging in a glass-free version made from recyclable plastics and post-consumer recycled PET. The company says that sustainability was at the heart of the project, as five out of eight components are reusable, while the three components that are replaced with each refill are fully recyclable.
The pump, designed to last up to 25 refills, extends the product’s lifecycle. Berlin Packaging Beauty adds that the product has an intuitive refilling experience that simplifies the process for the consumer. The design is conceived to guarantee fast, convenient, and error-free refilling. AirLight Refill is available in three sizes (15ml, 30ml, 50ml) and with three actuator options for serum, cream or gel.
The company also introduced new 30ml and 50ml travel-sizes for its refillable glass Foamy Collection. The company says that this is the first glass solution for foaming formulas in a travel-size version.
Monza-based (Italy) Essentia Beauty, which provides turnkey solutions, put the focus on premium refillable packaging, such as its make-up palette with a decorated sliding cover or its refillable lipsticks. The company also showcased SereniGlow, a perfumed microemulsion. The bi-phasic (water-oil) hybrid fragrance-bodycare is described as a booster of endorphins and oxytocin thanks to a greentech ingredient (Andrographis paniculata leaf extract), while also providing anti-aging and smoothing benefits. The fragrance is alcohol-free and suitable for sensitive skins.
Italian manufacturer Ancorotti group presented post treatment (microblading, waxing) refreshing gel patches for eyebrows called Keep it Between Us. The products are infused with a hyaluronic complex and upcycled mandarin extract.
French nail specialist Fiabila introduced its ready-to-wear manicure strips called Wear Ever Manicure Strips, the result of a partnership with Korean company Incoco. The strips can be easily applied to the nails and are then coated with a normal nail polish. There are a wide range of designs, and the product lasts up to 10 days.
US-based HCT by kdc/one previewed the seamless EcoTube (patent pending), designed for skincare from 5ml to 30ml. The cap and body in mono material LDPE are injected in a one-step process. According to the company, the items are competitively priced and offer a wide range of in-mold customization possibilities.
German company Faber-Castell Cosmetics showcased its new collection, Aware, which aims to transform the beauty routine into a mindful moment. Active ingredients are added to the products in a bid to deliver color and care. The plastic jumbo lipstick claims to moisturize the lips and reduce wrinkle depth. The nail care oil, infused with vanilla fragrance, oils and vitamins, nourishes the nails and has anti-bacterial properties.
German company Schwan showed AllNight, a new black liquid eyeliner designed for up to 30 hours wear. It claims to deliver an intense black silky matte finish and has a clean beauty formulation with less than 6% carbon. It is available with five ready-to-personalize packaging options and various choices of applicator.
Barcelona-based Scentmate by dsm-firmenich, which focuses on the development of fragrances through a digital process, showcased Home of the Senses. The collection of four fragrances were designed to induce specific emotions and moods: Sleep, Meditation, Creative Joy and Dopamine Morning.
The show in pictures
BW Confidential at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna
BW Confidential had strong visibility at the show this year, with the March-April Magazine distributed at our booth at the show, at the Buyer’s Lounges and at the News Stand area at the event.
The Cosmoprof & Cosmopack Awards
BW Confidential highlighted the winners and nominees of the Cosmoprof and Cosmopack awards in a special edition published last week. You can read the issue here.
The Cosmoprof & Cosmopack Awards were presented at a glittering ceremony on March 21 during the Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna show in Italy, hosted by actor and television author Livio Beshir. Influencer Nikkie De Jager, known worldwide as NikkieTutorials made a special appearance at the ceremony.
The awards recognize the most innovative products and services presented at the Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna event across all beauty sectors, from the supply chain to the finished product. Only new products launched between April 2024 and March 2025 can be nominated. This year, more than 800 applications were submitted for judging in a total of 17 categories.
The Cosmoprof Awards highlight the best picks in 11 categories, including color cosmetics, hair, nail, skincare and beauty salon products. Nominees in the category are judged on innovation, packaging and design, sustainability and ethics, safety, ingredients and formulations, user experience, creativity and product claims and benefits (the criteria for the fragrance category are: the perfumer, notes, storytelling and ingredient sourcing).
The Cosmopack Awards, meanwhile, reward the most innovative and pioneering solutions presented by top companies in the beauty supply chain in six categories. Nominees are judged on innovation, originality, sustainability and ethics, packaging and design, safety, ingredients and formulations, functionality and performance, and quality.
The products nominated for the awards were screened one by one by a technical jury, which resulted in a shortlist of three finalists for each category. A multi-disciplinary jury of experts, brand owners, retailers and media, then carefully analyzed ingredients, formulation, packaging, circularity and the environmental impact of production processes to vote for the winners.
The Life Achievement Award
The ceremony was also the occasion to present the Cosmoprof Life Achievement Award, which is awarded each year to the founder of a company that has made a major contribution to the beauty industry. General Manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof, Enrico Zannini presented the 2025 Life Achievement Award to Giovanni Sgariboldi, Founder and CEO of Euroitalia.