BW Confidential reports on key products and trends seen at the Cosmoprof Asia show, which took place in Hong Kong from November 12-17
Cosmoprof Asia returned to Hong Kong for the first time in four years in November – following two years when the show was cancelled due to Covid and the 2022 edition which took place in Singapore as a result of ongoing Covid restrictions in China. The show, which is organized by BolognaFiere Group and Informa Markets Asia, is split into two main sections: Cosmoprof Asia for finished products, which took place at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, and Cosmopack Asia for suppliers, which took place at the AsiaWorld-Expo. More than 2,400 exhibitors attended, 90% of whom were from outside Hong Kong.
The show saw a surge in visitor numbers, which rose 64% compared with the event’s 2019 edition to 65,582. David Bondi, Senior Vice President – Asia of Informa Markets and Director of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd, said that the show had welcomed greater numbers from mainland China, with Asia-Pacific also strong, while the number of visitors from Hong Kong was stable or increasing. He added that visitor numbers from Europe was also stable.
However, Bondi noted that visitor numbers from the US were particularly low, likely as a result of strained US-China relations.
Bondi stressed that the Asian market remains the most promising globally for beauty. He said that the global beauty and personal-care market will reach $547bn by 2027, with Asia Pacific a key growth driver and slated to account for 67% of gross value. While acknowledging a slowdown in the China market, he added that that Chinese companies are now looking to expand beyond their borders to compete with other countries in the Asia-Pacific region.
The key trend at the show, especially in the supplier and packaging area, was sustainability, with many companies presenting recycled and recyclable packaging, refillable products and clean, natural and/or vegan formulations.
Reflecting this theme was an area of the show called the ‘Bubble Cabin’, outlining how clean and green beauty trends impact consumer behavior.
Innovations seen in show
Korea-based packaging supplier FSKorea showcased its simplified, airless and refillable pumps using TPE or glass instead of metal in an effort to be more sustainable. TPE is also used for the bulb and cap of its automatic droppers. The company presented its palettes that use FSC paper, are refillable and can be taken apart to facilitate recycling. FSKorea also displayed its paper tubes, refillable jars and jars with a grinding function for foundation or pressed powder. The company showcased its make-up brushes with bamboo handles and said it avoids the use of chemical glue to be more eco-friendly. The brushes can also be taken apart for recycling. The company also presented brushes that were mono-material and used a synthetic replication of goat hair.
Nail polish manufacturer Fiabila showcased its low smell nail polish formulations that it says are up to 90% natural, sustainably sourced, 50% water and solvent-free. The formulations are high-gloss and the company claims they last up to two weeks; fragrances can also be added to the formula. The company also presented its nail care and treatments to repair the damage of UV gels.
Packaging company HCP showcased its primary packaging including airless containers and atmospheric pumps. Eric Firmin, President, said the company has also extended its airless system to tube packaging. He added that HCP aims to be more sustainable by making more packaging mono-material, such as its automatic dropper, which is made of glass with a partner company. The company presented its refillable jars using PCR and bio-based materials.
HCP also displayed palettes, as well lipsticks that are refillable and mono-material – in PP to address the masstige market, PET for the premium market and aluminum for high-end products. For the lipstick, the company has created a lockable mechanism, whereby the base needs to be added to the refill to unlock it, to prevent consumers from only buying the refill. Firmin stated that in addition to the demand for sustainable products, there is also a strong trend for ultra-luxe and ultra premiumization. To cater to both, he said the company uses aluminum and materials such as Swarovski stones for more premium products.
HCP also launched a Lash Studio to speed up the development and manufacturing of mascaras, especially as time to market has become more important since Covid-19.
Italy-based packaging company Baralan presented its airless glass containers and a collection of glass standard packaging and accessories that it says are sustainable and respond to emerging industry trends. Baralan claims its DEA Series is the first airless system in which the filled product is directly in contact with its glass container, meaning fewer components and materials and resulting in lighter and more functional packaging.
Baralan also showcased sustainable packaging options that use ecological materials for products typically produced in plastic. The company says it is focusing on waste optimization and promoting upcycling by using organic scraps, such as coffee peel and rice. These organic materials are combined with virgin plastic, decreasing the overall plastic resin content to create more sustainable packaging. This packaging can also be made with varying percentages of PCR plastic – from 30% to 100%. Finally, bio-based materials – produced with a biopolymer derived from renewable resources and natural materials not linked to the food chain – can be used to allow full recyclability.
Packaging company Libo Cosmetics showcased its ‘Clio Series’ cosmetic palettes, whose leather appearance and chevron design are meant to mimic a clutch handbag. The palettes are made out of PET, which is said to be more eco-friendly as it needs less energy to produce. The company adds that using the material also minimizes secondary manufacturing processes. In addition, Libo presented its compacts, lipstick cases, mascara containers and lip-gloss containers in a range of finishes including metallization, double color, spray matte and in different materials, such as 3D printed, silkscreen layers, embroidered or printed fabric, and glass.
France-based glass manufacturer Verescence highlighted its Reuse, Reduce, Replace, Recycle and Disrupt strategy. The company presented packaging that is refillable (reuse), packaging with reduced weight (reduce), packaging that replaces plastic with glass (replace) and packaging with recyclable interiors and/or that use recycled glass and PCR (recycle). Verescence is also using glass for smaller products, creating interior color coating with multiple effects that are compatible with fragrance and sculptural glass bottles that are usually made from plastic.
Germany-based color cosmetics manufacturer and supplier Schwan Cosmetics showcased its newly launched refillable, mechanical lip liner with exchangeable cartridges. The new product called ‘Power Up Your Pout’ features a peptide and jojoba oil-infused formulation and a drop-shaped tip to facilitate application. The company says the product combines active care ingredients with a sustainable and eco-conscious design. Schwan says the new range comes in response to increasing consumer demand for more ecologically conscious cosmetics, especially in the APAC market. It adds that the sustainable beauty trend continues to grow as Asian consumers are looking for alternatives to single-use beauty products. The company’s existing eyeliner and lip liner pencil, ‘TheBetterBarrel,’ was nominated in the sustainability category of the Cosmopack Asia Awards.
Marchesini Group Beauty and its sister company SEA Vision presented its new technology ‘A-eye lipstick’ that uses AI algorithms, classic algorithms and industrial automation to assess lipsticks’ quality during the production process, which it says is one of the most complex products. The system’s cameras capture 360-degree images of the lipstick, focusing on the tip. These images are then analyzed to assess each of the lipstick’s components to detect any defects. The system then communicates with the production machine to ensure that any faulty products are automatically rejected. The companies aim to train a machine to replace human quality controllers to reduce costs, increase productivity and reduce waste. The technology can be embedded in existing lipstick manufacturing equipment and it can also be used for powder, mascara and brushes. The technology won a Cosmopack Asia Award in the Innovative Technology category. It will be launched in March 2024 at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna.
Luxembourg-based nail polish and make-up manufacturer Il Cosmetics showcased its new tubing mascara, a product that it says is not usually clean. The company says its product is more than 80% natural and 100% vegan, and has Clean at Sephora and Ulta Beauty certifications. The mascara has two different brushes, one fiber and bio-based, which comes in recycled packaging and is fully recyclable. Il Cosmetics also presented its plumping liquid lipstick, which it positions as an alternative to the more common plumping lip gloss. It is highly pigmented and demi-matte with a satin finish. The company claims it is non-drying and it is 100% vegan.
Germany-based packaging company Rissmann presented its paper pulp boxes that are made out of paper fibre but are rigid, as part of the company’s environmentally friendly concept. Paper-weaved handles can be integrated into the box, serving both decorative and functional purposes. Faye Law, General Manager, said packaging featuring pressed dried flowers showed the integration between product and packaging. The company also showcased its laser engraved finish, where it removes the surface of paper to create a pattern or print, and a shopping bag with a velvet touch finish, which is a pure paper product with no plastic used. The company also presented its e-commerce collection, where it aims to minimize the use of different materials by creating an external delivery box to go with the internal gift box. A paper-weaved ribbon secures the box inside to enhance the customer opening experience. The packaging can feature e-commerce codes such as QR codes.
HCT showcased packaging that it says is designed for recycling, made from PET, PP, metal, glass, 100% bio-based natural fibers, and packaging made from two recycable materials that can be dissembled for recycling. It also presented its refillable and airless packaging, which it claims enables consumers to use 90% of the product.
Italy-based cosmetics manufacturer MPlus Cosmetics showcased ‘Daddy Cool’, its new soft lip gel with a water-based formula that gives a cool, fresh sensation and has a metallic finish. The company says the product is long-lasting and can be used as eye shadow, all over the face and on the lips. MPlus also presented its transparent brow wax, ‘Shellac Brows,’ which shapes and defines brows to create a lamination effect. The clear, wax-based formula is suitable for all brow tones, creates a soft, pliable texture and the company claims it doesn’t lead to any stiffness, white residue or lumps. The company’s Shellac applicator features wings to contain the product and act as a brush, and a flat section to improve the lamination effect on the brows. The product was nominated for a Cosmopack Asia Award in the Make-up Formula category.
France-based packaging company Coverpla presented its new finishes for perfume bottles, including internal colored coating, exterior glitter glued to the surface of the bottle and an exterior velvet texture. It has also collaborated with Spain-based glass packaging company Estal to create a hollow base for glass bottles.
Italy-based cosmetics manufacturer B.Kolor showcased its ‘Feel Former Imperfection Shielding Cream,’ an acne cream that can be used as a primer under make-up. The cream aims to prevents acne breakouts and reduce redness, while simultaneously improving hydration and protecting the skin’s barrier. The company claims it has a mattifying, sebum-reducing, and anti-inflammatory effect. The hybrid formula aims to purify, calm and balance acne-prone skin, while providing a make-up base. The cream won a Cosmopack Asia Award in the Skin Care Formula category. B.Kolor also presented its ‘Materialips Everlasting Blur Lipstick,’ a non-drying, blurring lipstick. The company claims the lipstick minimizes imperfections unlike matte lipsticks, which it says can be less effective for older consumers. The lipstick was nominated for a Cosmopack Asia Award in the Make-up Formula category.
Greece-based cosmetics company Youth Lab showcased its three anti-aging lines, each with a different core ingredient: Vitamin C, retinol and peptides. It also presented its lines for hydration, blemishes, body and suncare, and its latest launch, the Dark Spot Remover Serum. Youth Lab says the product works to prevent and reduce the appearance of discoloration and hyperpigmentation (related to sun exposure, acne, aging or hormonal disorders). It is suitable for all skin types and claims to be dermatologically tested, non-phagosogenic, parabens and gluten free, not tested on animals and suitable for vegans.
France-based cosmetics manufacturer BEA Laboratories showcased its new perfume which appears cloudy and comes in different colors. It also presented its dry oil, which does not contain oil and therefore does not separate or feel sticky, but is dry to the touch. The company showcased its solid perfume which it claims lasts eight hours and a glitter body mist, where the glitter also does not separate from the formula.
UK-based fragrance manufacturer Genie-S International showcased its refillable perfume atomizer. The company says atomizer provides up to 75 sprays per refill and is made from aircraft grade aluminum and anti-impact plastic, which it claims is environmentally friendly and aircraft approved for carry-on baggage. The product features a pump to refill mechanism which Genie-S says is patented technology and is leak- proof and glass-free to prevent breakages. The inner flasks and outer pods can be mixed and matched. Genie-S’ Travalo brand is for the prestige market, while Perfume Pod is for the mass market.
Brazil-based cosmetics company O Boticário showcased its Nativa SPA bodycare products featuring quinoa, which it says provides a step-by-step treatment for hydration and firming. The company adds that it uses patented technology to extract the quinoa oil from the grain. The formula is vegan and 95% natural. This was the first time that the O Boticário brand has exhibited at the Cosmoprof Asia show, and is party of the company’s strategy to expand in Asia.
Korea-based beauty tech start-up Reziena showcased its ‘Young & Be Pro,’ an at-home device that claims to offer anti-aging benefits. It uses High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound (HIFU) and Elastic-core TCP technology to heat up cells, claiming this helps skin to reproduce and create more collagen. It also claims to be the smallest HIFU device on the market. Instead of selling cartridges at a cost to the consumer, the device can be charged. The company also presented its ‘Bio-radiance Mask’ which uses iontophoresis technology, whereby microcurrents aid the absorption of active cosmetic ingredients through the skin barrier. The mask is not battery operated, but rather uses clean-tech Biocell as a paper-based power source. The mask features an LED light so users know the microcurrent is activated.
France-based cosmetics and fragrance company Creation Beauté International (CBI) showcased its re-branded Rexaline range after purchasing the brand two years ago. The brand has four existing lines, each for a different skin concern: Sensitive, dehydrated, wrinkled and uneven, and the company is to launch its new fifth line for all skin types and at a lower price point. CBI said it has a strong presence in Europe, Russia and Eastern Europe, and is performing well in Hong Kong, one of its biggest markets. The company added that it plans to expand to the rest of Asia.
Germany-based company Geske showcased its beauty technology products. The company claims to take existing technologies and makes them available to the consumer at an accessible price point (ranging from $7-$90). The company added that its working with dermatologists to create 300 technologies. Geske said it spent $8m on an app that scans and analyzes the skin, provides a recommended regime and explains how to use the products. It is working on developments such as being able to track the skin’s progress, 4D and demonstrating how the products work on the skin.
