BW Confidential highlights the trends, talking points and innovations from the Beautyworld Middle East trade show, which took place in Dubai from October 28 to 30, 2024.
The mood was upbeat at this year’s Beautyworld Middle East show, with most companies optimistic about growth in the region despite the geopolitical situation. Talking points at the show included the ongoing strength of fragrance in the region and the potential of Saudi Arabia in particular. Trends highlighted included intense, long-lasting fragrances, fragrance layering and the rise of home fragrances.
Show organizers Messe Frankfurt said this year’s Beautyworld Middle East show was the largest yet, with 2,000 regional and international exhibitors from 164 participating countries, an increase of eight countries compared to 2023. It attracted more than 70,000 visitors, a 10% increase compared to last year and attendance by international visitors was up 8% overall.
From the show floor – Fragrance news & launches
Swiss flavor and fragrance company Givaudan showcased a collection of nine fragrances with a concept called FIRE!, which it says is a tribute to the multifaceted nature of fire in perfumery. Xavier Renard, Global Head of Fine Fragrance at Givaudan, describes the Middle East as a “highly dynamic market.” “Saudi has been growing tremendously over the past five to 10 years. Can it keep growing? Probably not to the extent that it has been growing, as there is a limit to the amount of fragrance that people can use, but there is still space to grow. E-commerce has helped the development of fragrances in Saudi. We’ve seen brands growing through that channel of distribution and this could have never happened 5 to10 years ago,” Renard explains. He adds: “In Saudi, we went from traditional retail spaces with stores, to people buying fragrances on Instagram or TikTok […] Over the last few years, what happened in the digital world has really helped the growth of fragrances.”
French fragrance house Expressions Parfumées (Givaudan) presented Silk Odyssey, a fine fragrance collection inspired by the Silk Road. The collection consists of four fragrances, each created by one of the company’s perfumers to represent a different country and type of silk: China and Mulberry silk, Uzbekistan and Ikat silk, India and Tussar silk and Italy and Venetian Velvet silk.
The company showed a fine fragrance collection called New Freshness using its Longscent technology, which it claims prolongs the life of fragrances for up to 72 hours. Expressions Parfumées says the technology combines the intensity of fragrances in the Middle East with the freshness of fragrances in Asia. Marie-Eugenie Bouge, Marketing & Communications Director comments: “People in the Middle East love very strong fragrances, but they are also interested in freshness if it lasts.”
The company also presented a collection of reed diffusers called Melodies in the Air, with each scent inspired by a musical technique. The collection is in response to a shift among Middle Eastern consumers from the use of traditional bakhoor to home fragrances, such as reed diffusers.
Finally, Expressions Parfumées presented My Perfume Routine, a collection of six new fragrance “gestures”: Solid perfume, roll-on, body and hair mist, click pen and hair oil and powder. The company says the collection enables consumers to have scents in versatile and convenient formats. The fragrances are multi-purpose with different textures, have a high dosage for long-lastingness and are water-based.
The powder, click pen and hair and body mists contain glitter so they can be used both as scents and face and body make-up. The hair oil can be used as a scent and haircare product. The roll-on functions as a scent, but also claims to be mood enhancing. Finally, the solid perfume can be used as a scent and bodycare product. Bouge says the collection taps into the Middle Eastern trend for layering fragrances and also the importance of fragrances in personal-care products.
Expressions Parfumées is focusing on expanding in the Middle East, Africa and Asia. The company changed its brand identity earlier this year to align with its positioning as a company focused solely on fragrances, not flavors.
UK-based fragrance house CPL Aromas’ booth had the theme of “Great Adventures” with four pillars: The Local Palette, The Great Escape, AromaSpace Gems and Middle East 3.0. The Local Palette displayed fragrances that reflect local Middle Eastern heritage and traditions. The Great Escape presented scents that reflect a different country or region in the Middle East. AromaSpace Gems featured artworks created by children with autism from Lebanon in collaboration with the NGO, Kreative Call; a room spray and candle were created for each artwork. Middle East 3.0 consisted of three fragrances which aimed to evoke CPL Aromas’ vision for the future, bringing together regional tradition with modern innovation. CPL Aromas also hosted an evening event at the Mandarin Oriental which highlighted the company’s latest AromaSpace scent, Seaside.
This year, CPL Aromas celebrates the 10th anniversary of its factory in region. CPL Aromas CEO Chris Pickthall commented: “In this market, we’re still the only company that manufactures in the UAE. It’s a great advantage for us that we can deliver to Saudi, Kuwait, Bahrain by truck.” He adds that the fragrance market overall is booming: “The world is in love with fragrance, and in love with expensive fragrance. The price points [of niche scents] continue to go up. There’s so much innovation and customers love pushing the boundaries.”
Cosmo International Fragrances’ booth was inspired by the ancient civilization Atlantis, with the company presenting a collection of 12 fragrances inspired by the theme. It also showed its latest products in fine fragrances, candles, reed diffusers and home fresheners, as well as recent innovations such as AquaElixir and ScentBloom Duo. AquaElixir was launched in September and is a 100% natural origin, water-based technology for alcohol-free fragrances. It is biodegradable and is billed as an eco-friendly alternative to traditional alcohol-based fragrances. It is also described as skin-friendly – the formula is said to be gentle and contain moisturizing properties. Cosmo also claims it is long-lasting and has a high fragrance dosage.
Cosmo International Fragrances CEO Marc Blaison says that while the company has traditionally had a stronger presence in the US and Europe, the Middle East is now a priority and is backed by high-levels of investment. Cosmo reopened its laboratory dedicated to fine fragrance in Dubai in April.
In terms of consumer trends in the market, Samira Boumédiène, Cosmo International Fragrances Global Marketing and Communication Director commented: “Around six years ago, people wanted fresh, oriental scents, but now they want to have a modern oud. There is a trend for fruity oud, gourmand oud, oud with coffee – oud has started to become more modern because of the new generation. The kind of modern oud pleases the new generation because it keeps [the Middle Eastern] identity, which is very important in the region, but [also] starts to be a little bit more European, more Western.”
Boumédiène added: “Another important trend is home fragrances, which has really started to grow over the past two years. You have candles, but what people really like is the reed diffuser. Before, they had home fresheners, but now this has begun to be more luxury – they love this kind of hotel room fragrance.”
Spanish fragrance house Eurofragance presented five new fragrances with a festival-like experience called Scentphony. The company collaborated with Middle Eastern musicians Ahmed Younis and Essa Hashemi who created five musical compositions that inspired the development of the five fragrances by Eurofragance’s perfumers. The company held two live silent discos per day, where visitors could listen to each song and smell the corresponding fragrance simultaneously.
All the fragrances feature Eurofragance’s latest captive ingredient Euphorion, which is the first synthetic ingredient in its ICON palette. Euphorion is said to provide a dose of natural freshness even at minimal doses. The company says that as a mid-sized fragrance house, the launch of a captive ingredient is a milestone.
Japanese flavor and fragrance company Takasago presented 13 fragrances created by 10 of its perfumers. The fragrances aimed to be a ‘bridge’ between Dubai and Tokyo and combined Middle Eastern materials with one ingredient from Takasago’s Japanese palette, along with one or more of its captive molecules. They were presented in conical laboratory flasks, as well as through AirParfum’s diffusion system, which allowed visitors to use a touchscreen to release a micro-spray of perfume revealing each note without saturating the air and the nose. Takasago says its booth at the show was inspired by Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion temple in Kyoto, Japan.
Sylvain Eyraud, Takasago Global Marketing and Communication Director, said: “We see a new momentum coming in the Middle East. It’s even more important to be here this year, because we just opened our new creative centers in Mumbai, and we see a clear bridge between India and the Middle East. For us, it’s also to recognize the full potential of the Indian market connected to the Middle East region.”
Eyraud added: “Saudi Arabia could have the weight of the UK market by 2028. The dynamism of the Saudi market is driven by purchasing power, an ambitious urban middle class investing in beauty and well-being and strong digitalization. There is also growing demand for clean products. Before, there was no talk about sustainability in the region, but now clean products are becoming the norm for consumers looking for transparency and sustainability. There’s [also] a strong focus on local culture and know-how”.
French fragrance house Parfex (Croda) presented its Entertainment collection with a concept inspired by fun themes such as arcade games and music festivals. At its booth, the Entertainment collection was displayed inside a dark, tunnel-like space with neon lights and music. Each fragrance was paired with a multi-sensory experience. Visitors could interact with elements like a “Pac-Man”-inspired game featuring fragrance ingredients, UV-revealed hidden messages, a digital animation of a camel blowing bubble gum, a candy dispenser, an animation of Dubai’s Burj Khalifa and an interactive dance floor.
The company has strengthened its presence in the UAE with the opening of a new creative center in Dubai Science Park in October. Parfex describes the region as “one of the world’s most dynamic fragrance markets”. The company says the center will allow it to better respond to customer requests and monitor market and consumer trends. Parfex adds that the move also reflects its ambition to expand beyond the traditional fine fragrance sector into cosmetics.
Spanish fragrance house Iberchem (Croda) showcased its latest fragrance concept “Abracadabra” for the first time. Eight fragrances created by the company’s perfumers were presented using interactive displays. A live show took place twice a day with celebrity magician Normando, who was featured in Netflix’ series Dubai Bling.
This year, Iberchem moved from its long-time office in Business Bay to a larger facility located in Dubai’s Science Park to accommodate the company’s growth in the Gulf region.
Italian flavor and fragrance company Moellhausen presented the DU•IT collection, which was created at its new R&D facility in Dubai called the DU•IT Creative Center. The collection consists of six fragrances: Six Hands, Green Flag, Dodo, The Frame, Let’s Celebrate and Time, which were composed by the company’s perfumers in Milan and Dubai.
Moellhausen held the official opening of the new facility four days before the trade show. The company says the new hub for R&D, rapid sampling and test-scale production will enable it to better respond to the needs of clients and strengthen collaboration between the UAE and Italy. The opening of the new facility, together with the executive offices that opened last year, completes the company’s Dubai branch. The company also opened a new studio in Jakarta, Indonesia, in September.
Flavor and fragrance company dsm-firmenich showcased a collection of six fragrances to reflect its booth’s theme of “Scented Flows – An Ode to Water”. The theme explores the importance of water in the Arabic Peninsula. The booth featured a scented fountain installation called “Eau Fraiche”, created by French artists Alexandre Helwani and Lucas Huillet in collaboration with dsm-firmenich perfumers. The water from the fountain was infused with a fragrance to simulate the sensation of freshness. dsm-firmenich also collaborated with the artist collective Future Bedouin and the Dubai Culture and Arts Authority for an exhibition called “Imagine Sensorium” in the Perfume House at the Al Shindagha Museum, the UAE’s largest open-air heritage museum. The exhibition features installations inspired by local Bedouin culture and ran from October 28 to November 24.
Commenting on the state of the Middle Eastern fragrance market, dsm-firmenich President Global Fine Fragrance Jerry Vittoria said: “Saudi Arabia was slow to get out of Covid, but in the past couple of years the market has really progressed a lot and is growing.” In terms of consumer trends, he added: “Consumers’ fragrance usage [in the region] is 10 times more than that of a Western consumer. The consumers here want to be unique and are always layering, both with fragrances and with oils; they want to know that what they’re buying is something different and are very well versed on all the latest trends.”
Flavor and fragrance company Bell F&F presented eight new fragrances that are oud-based but have been “twisted” with other ingredients, such as musk, amber and rose. Shaho Balani, General Manager comments: “This is a trend now in the GCC, but also in Europe.” The company is also focusing on air fresheners and fabric softeners, which Balani says are important to the region, due to the weather and humidity.
In terms of the market, Balani comments: “The focus is really on the Middle East and now more and more on Africa. That’s why it’s very important to be here. There’s a big potential, with a lot of new companies coming up.”
Balani highlights the potential of the market in Saudi Arabia. “Now all eyes are on Saudi Arabia, since it is much more open. [Before] companies were serving the Saudi market from Dubai, but now many companies are opening an office in Saudi. If the country’s opening up continues, there will probably be more manufacturing in Saudi Arabia too,” Balani states.
UAE-based fragrance and personal-care manufacturer Sterling Parfums showcased new launches for its Armaf brand. The company has launched two new fragrances for its Club de Nuit franchise, Lion Heart for men and women, a new line called Infinity consisting of two fragrances and its new Delights collection consisting of two fragrances, Yum Yum and Island Bliss.
With the brand already present in over 130 countries. Hamza Asgar Fakhruddin, Managing Partner, Sterling Parfums, says its priority now is to increase brand recognition. Armaf invited around 25 influencers from across the world to the trade show to boost awareness of the new fragrances. The brand is also looking to expand further in Saudi Arabia.
Fakhruddin says the company provides the quality of designer perfumes at a lower cost. He states: “Anybody can make a fragrance and sell it for an expensive price […]. But achieving high-quality fragrances that everybody can purchase – that’s where we really stand and that’s what we popularized as a brand around the world […]. We can compete head-to-head with all the designer brands without having to go to that price point.”
UAE-based fragrance brand Ajmal highlighted the home fragrance trend in the Middle East. “Home fragrance began to boom during Covid in the region, and it is something that people have now gotten used to and want to continue using,” explains Anup Kondakundi, Global Head – Marketing Strategy & Brand Transformation.
Ajmal is focusing on expanding internationally. The company plans to open in China and is developing the US and Europe. Ajmal is already is already sold in the US through third-party distributors, but the company intends to open its own stores in the country. It will also expand in the UK and Europe by opening its own stores. Ajmal has around 75 stores in Saudi Arabia. “We are expanding very fast in Saudi Arabia. Our ambition in Saudi is to at least double our number of stores in the coming few years, as it’s a growing market and the fragrance business in Saudi is increasing,” says Kondakundi.
UK-based fragrance house Designer Parfums showcased its shimmer body mists for the Playboy brand. The brand will launch two new flankers in September next year, a men’s and women’s eau de toilette, along with a deodorant and shower gel. The brand targets a Gen Z audience and social media plays a big role in its development. The company launches extensive social-media campaigns with influencers and is to begin selling on TikTok Shop in the UK and on Amazon in Germany. The brand is already sold on Amazon in the UK. In the Middle East, the company is looking for a distributor.
The company says that the Playboy brand has 98% recognition globally. In the UK, the brand is also sold in Boots, Superdrug, and The Perfume Shop. “By bringing in Playboy, The Perfume Shop reinvigorated its masstige area. It’s a whole new target market. Why can’t there be a brand among the prestige and/or high-end products that’s accessible and speaks to Gen Z, especially as Gen Z is the new emerging consumer in the fragrance category,” says a Designer Parfums spokesperson.
From the show floor – Packaging news & launches
US-based packaging company Aptar presented its new fragrance mist collection with spray solutions for body and hair. The collection consists of four mists, which the company says enables brands to mix and match designs, materials and sprays to create a personalized solution. The products include fine and enveloping mists, regular and wide angles, standard and long-lasting.
Aptar also showcased Neodropper. Neodropper has the intuitive gesture of a traditional dropper, but with a shorter applicator to prevent direct contact with the formula, thereby protecting it from contamination and offering better dosage control. Aptar adds that when attached to a glass bottle, it is compatible with glass recycling streams.
The company also showcased its Ovaltouch On-the-Go Oval Face Stick, which it says provides easy and precise application, is polyoxymethylene- (POM) and styrenics-free and is adapted to the face or sensitive areas.
As part of its focus on sustainable manufacturing, German glassmaker Heinz Glas has reopened its oldest site in Piesau, Germany, which was demolished in March and has been replaced with an electric glass melting furnace said to be climate friendly. The new furnace can melt 70 tons of glass per day. Heinz invested around €17m in the first stage of the production site’s transformation. The company says that in the coming years, further production processes will be converted to fossil-free energy sources, such as green electricity and green hydrogen. With the tempering process beginning in mid-September, glass bottles have been produced in Piesau as usual since October. Heinz currently employs around 280 people at the site.
Italian packaging company Lumson showcased its XTAG glass bottle that comes in 15ml and 30ml and features an airless refill system that uses pouch technology. The company says the pouch technology protects the formula and the use of pressé technology (shaping molten glass using mechanical force) gives the bottle a premium design. In-house customization options are available for the inner and outer glass, the refill, pump and cap. Lumson says the system reduces CO2 emissions by 38%.
Fabio Manzoni, Group Marketing and ICT Manager, said Lumson is working to develop its presence in the Middle East, as it will open a new perfumery business unit next February. The new Lumson Perfumery business unit will be launched at Cosmoprof Bologna next March.
Beautyworld Middle East 2024 at a glance
Took place: October 28-30, 2024 at Dubai World Trade Center, UAE
Exhibitors: 2,000
Participating countries: 164
Visitors: 70,000
Beautyworld Middle East Awards
The Beautyworld Middle East Awards 2024 took place at a gala dinner during the show at the Conrad Hotel in Dubai.
The Beautyworld Awards, which recognize excellence in the beauty and fragrance industry, had 600 entries, 83 finalists, 20 judges and 17 award categories, in addition to a Lifetime Achievement Award. Six new categories for 2024 include Male Grooming Product of the Year, Hair Styling Device of the Year, Skincare Product of the Year and Conscious Brand of the Year, with Bloom highlighting sustainability as a key factor in this year’s Awards.
BW Confidential was media partner of the Beautyworld Awards, and BW Confidential journalist Alison Postma was part of the jury this year.
Beautyworld Middle East Awards 2024 winners
Technology Innovation of the Year: RLX Satori by Gharieni’s Satori
Innovative Packaging of the Year: KV Eau de Parfum Collection by KV & CO
Luxury Packaging of the Year: Savasci Pour Homme by Junaid Jamshed
Hair Styling Device of the Year: GHD Chronos
Hair Product of the Year: Revlonissimo Colorsmetique by Revlon Professional
Nail Product of the Year: L’Atelier Green Paris
Conscious Brand of the Year: Alizarine Lipstick by Le Rouge Français
Media Campaign of the Year: Georgina Rodriguez Ramadan campaign by Laverne Groupe
Newcomer Brand of the Year: Trépure
Male Grooming Product of the Year: The Beard Oil by The Manesmith
Cosmetic Product of the Year: Blush Filter Liquid Blush by Huda Beauty
Skincare Product of the Year: Snow Mushroom Ice-to-Gel De-Stress Hydrator by SKG Labs
Popular Fragrance of the Year: Noir Parfum by Al Majed Oud
Niche Fragrance of the Year: Red Wine Brown Sugar by Bohoboco
Personal Care Product of the Year: Double Tip Tweezers by DUPLY
Homegrown Brand of the Year: Kayali
Retailer of the Year: LookFantastic.ae
Lifetime Achievement Award: Maria Dowling, Creative Director of Mariadowling Salon