Trends, innovations & talking points from Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2024

Cosmoprof Bologna

 

BW Confidential highlights the trends, talking points and innovations from the Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna trade show, which took place in Italy from March 21-24

The mood was generally positive at the Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna show this year. Despite the geo-political turbulence, most companies were optimistic about the market, which is expected to grow in the 5% range this year. Executives’ key concerns involved the continued slowdown in China and overstocking.

In the packaging area, Cosmopack, the central theme was once again sustainability, as suppliers prepare for new regulations. However, some packagers remarked that not all brands are ready to accept sustainable solutions. In addition, most are unwilling to pay more for sustainable options, despite the added costs involved for suppliers.

The show itself welcomed 248,500 visitors from 150 countries, and saw a 9% increase in international visitors. Some 3,012 exhibitors from 69 countries attended the event, 4% more than last year. Most exhibitors welcomed the show organizers’ move to open all areas of the event on the same day this year.


Innovations seen in show

Germany-based Geka (Medmix Group) unveiled a PCR PP material for primary packaging, which for the first time can be used in direct contact with bulk and formulation. The company showcased a range of mascaras, whose bottles and rods are produced with the PCR PP material. The material can be decorated in the same way as virgin PP, allowing complex decorative effects and vibrant color.

Aptar Beauty highlighted its Turnkey solutions, a new service launched last year on the EMEA market, which develops made-to-measure products from formulation to packaging. On the booth, the collection Go Beyond Beauty inspired by the Olympic Games was unveiled. It includes 30 skincare and make-up products with a high degree of naturality, the company says. The Silky Loose Powder can be unlocked by sliding a middle button and is said to deliver the right quantity of product and so is suited for on-the-go use.

Italian make-up manufacturer Chromavis (Fareva group) launched OneMore, a dual-effect lipstick with a transparent outer layer and a colored inner core. On application, the product releases both the color and skincare benefits within the creamy core and the plumping and hydrating effects in the glossy shell. The dual-effect is the result of a double chamber pouring technique (patent-pending) and will see different applications.

German manufacturer Schwan Cosmetics introduced Blotted Mochi Bounce Color, which can be used on the lips, eyes, or cheeks. Inspired by Korean beauty trends and the fluffy-textured Mochi dessert, the products include oil-based skincare ingredients (shea butter and jojoba oil) and claim to deliver a natural matte finish. The products’ gel-to-cream texture, light scent, multi-purpose use and ease of application address the new consumer’s demands, the company says.  

Italian primary cosmetic packaging company Lumson showcased Essential, a new collection of bottles in aluminum. Available in four sizes (50ml, 75ml, 100ml, 150ml), the bottles are suitable for skincare, haircare, bodycare and suncare. To enhance their sustainability profile, they can be produced in 100% PCR aluminum with dispensing systems in PP/PCR, PP/aluminum overshell. The bottles can be personalized with a variety of decorations (up to six colors) and effects.

Italian company Gotha Cosmetics presented Bubble Gum Bronzer, a pressed powder with a soft ‘gummy’ texture that melts on the skin like a cream. The company claims that this hybrid product combines the lightness of a powder and the blend-ability of a cream, and that it leaves no sense of dryness thanks to its emollient binders (silicone oils and ester).

Surfing on the skinification trend, Italian family-owned makeup manufacturer Art Cosmetics launched Crystal Aura, a range of powder primers that can be infused with two to three drops of different serums with different benefits – energizing, hydrating and plumping. The company also revealed that it will open a new production facility exclusively dedicated to powders before the summer.

Global company HCT by kdc/one highlighted its Speed Line program that offers a solution for brands that want to launch products quickly and with sustainable packaging. The components are 100% mono-material PET and designed for recycling. To ensure recyclability, there are a limited number of decoration processes. If stock is available, HCT can produce 2,500-25,000 pieces in just two-to-three weeks with the brand’s chosen custom decoration.

Berlin Packaging|Premi Industries presented Euphoria, a new collection of fragrance bottles (30ml, 50ml, 100ml) with a rounded shoulder and thick glass base, designed for the premium market. Refillable versions are available with 15/415 refill necks and a refill accessory.

Packaging company HCP presented TWST, a 30ml twist tottle designed for liquid cosmetics and skincare products. It is refillable, recyclable, and available in PCR. This on-the-go product opens with a simple twist and is squeezable for dispensing.

In the Ingredients Zone, Grasse-based Expressions Parfumées presented Aquaco, a patented technology to formulate fragrances without alcohol. The concentrated perfume compound is diluted at 35% into water for a final fragrance dosage of 10%. According to the company, there are a number of advantages with alcohol-free fragrance: it is suitable for babies, there is no risk of photo-sensitivity and it can be adapted to many categories of products. Aquaco Boost retains 90% of its intensity after 24 hours, versus 81% for an alcohol-based EdT.


Key trends from the show

  • Mono-material eco-droppers with their three components in PP paired with bottles in PCR glass are on the rise.

 

  • Growth of sensorial color cosmetics with soft-touch packaging, ‘transformative’ textures (gel-to-cream or powder-to-cream) and with a light scent.

 

  • The continued no make-up trend has given rise to the need for new types of products to enhance a natural look.

 

  • Increased requests in the body mist category, as these products are seen as a less costly alternative to perfume.

 

  • Success of multi-purpose products that allow consumers to simplify the beauty routine and limit consumption. This can be seen in the number of multi-functional products shown that can be used for lips, eyes and cheeks, as well as skincare formulas that perform different tasks, such as a cleansing mousse that becomes a cream

 

  • Increased demand for travel sizes and on the on-the-go products that are refillable.

 

  • A number of packagers have enlarged their offer to include ranges for haircare and home fragrances.

Talking heads: Executive views on the market

 

“China has not completely recovered yet and the whole of Asia, though in a minor way, is impacted. Some cosmetics companies have faced a problem of overstocking. However, I am confident that 2024 will be a transition year and there will be a rebound of activity in China in 2025. To counterbalance the volatility of the market, it is fundamental to work on price and service which includes speed. Of course, sustainability involves a huge effort to redesign all products and find concrete alternatives to plastic, as the new 2025-2030 regulations are approaching. We create bio-based solutions, but prices are higher and currently the market shares are very low.”

HCP Packaging France President Eric Firmin

 

“Big players have overstocked, and so growth may slow in 2024, but the sustainability trend is providing a boost. However, the refillable solutions that all suppliers now offer, have not yet yielded enormous results. On the upside, new brands are emerging and are ready to innovate, and despite the geo-political turbulence, I see a return to stability in 2024.”

Berlin Packaging|Premi Industries General Manager Vivien Charrey

 

“The big challenge is combining sustainability and quality. The shift to green energy and sustainability has a cost and prices keep going up.”

Faber-Castell Cosmetics President-Managing Director Dagmar Chlosta