BW Confidential highlights the trends, talking points and innovations from the Beautyworld Middle East trade show, which took place in Dubai from October 27 to 29, 2025
There was a definite exuberance and a buoyant mood at this year’s Beautyworld Middle East show, a reflection of the growth in the region, especially when it comes to fragrance. Show organizers Messe Frankfurt said this year’s event was the biggest yet, with over 2,500 exhibitors from 68 countries participating, and a total of 85,291 visitors from 178 countries, up nearly 20% compared to 2024; international attendance grew nearly 31%.
Indeed, exhibitors underlined the international aspect of the show, with a strong presence of Asian, European and even American visitors. Booths were also more grandiose than in the past, especially those from Middle Eastern fragrance brands. Industry players commented that increasingly executives were attending the show to find out about key trends influencing the region and their growing influence on the global market.
Talking points at the show included the ongoing strength of fragrance in the region and the potential of Saudi Arabia in particular. However, most of the major fragrance houses also cited increased competition, given how much these companies are now investing in the market.
The fast pace of the market, number of launches, the importance of social media and high product quality were also frequently mentioned as key features of the region, as was the growing global presence of local Middle Eastern companies.
Other key trends included long-lasting fragrances, fragrance layering, and gourmand and fruity notes. In terms of the potential impact of geopolitical volatility on the region, Julianne Pruett, President, Global Fine Fragrance at Symrise (left) said that she does not see this issue inhibiting the region’s growth; instead she believes the market will continue to open up and expand.
Industry views on the market
IFF President Fine Fragrance Sabrya Meflah
“The market in the Middle East and Africa is projected to grow by 7.6% [CAGR 2025-2029], with the GCC at 10%, when the global market is at 5.4% – and the country that is seeing the most growth is Saudi Arabia at +12%. [Government initiatives, especially when it comes to women] are massive in terms of influence and the way of using and wearing perfume.
The influence of [Middle Eastern] perfumes on the global market is huge, especially in North America and Latin America. This is because of the quality of the products, and also as [companies in the region] are experts in fragrance and they put a lot of effort into the creative process and invest a lot in the fragrance. You have traditional ingredients like oud, rose and musk, which are also expensive ingredients, and they don’t compromise on that. Consumers globally now have four or five perfumes and are also layering – like in skincare where you have a skin routine, there is a scent a routine; there is a new type of usage.”
Givaudan Global Head of Fine Fragrances Xavier Renard
“What Middle Eastern brands are putting on the table are high quality products, in olfactive terms, but also overall, with the packaging, how they talk to consumers, and at a retail price that did not exist before. These brands are quick, agile and take risks. They are very close to the consumer, as they are very active on social media and respond to consumers rapidly.
[Middle Eastern fragrance] is not just an olfactive trend, it’s about giving consumers fragrances that have signature, memorability, strength, diffusion and addiction. The common thread is the signature. People look for fragrances that are memorable, strong – this will have an effect on the rest of the world; they are raising the bar.
Middle Eastern brands have created a new space, and something incremental, which is great. This does not in any shape or form jeopardize the niche, prestige or mass segment, but is a win for everyone. They have created awareness for fragrances that we are all benefiting from. I see it as an opportunity for [international brands] to enter that space.
Obviously, the Eldorado for Middle Eastern brands is the US, and Latin America is a great market as well. But these brands are also trying to enter Southeast Asia, in Indonesia, Thailand, the Philippines and Malaysia. However, it may be more difficult for Middle Eastern brands to enter geographies where you already have strong regional brands like in Southeast Asia. But again, with their creativity, their reactivity and the way they speak to the market, they’ll find a solution.”
MANE General Manager Dubai Maysoon Younis
“Consumers are asking for better quality products, higher concentrations, better performance, texture and creativity. We also see a major shift from being either a traditional local or follower market, which was the case 20 years ago, to becoming a very creative market where a lot of new ideas are born and are inspiring launches in the West. This systemic change has a multiplier effect on our industry in terms of quantities and values. It’s exponential, but it’s not only in fragrance, but also in consumer goods. Due to geopolitical reasons, in the past two to three years, we have also seen an explosive growth of local consumer goods brands coming to center stage and eating into the market share of the multinationals today. Our clients have adopted very smart regional tactics and strategies; it is unprecedented to have local and regional brands leading in major categories.”
CPL Aromas General Manager Dubai Rawya Catto
“The GCC today is an exciting market for luxury and perfumery, with Dubai and Riyadh leading the way in projects and development. There is a convergence of the fragrance world in the Middle East and an interesting cultural exchange is happening. Western brands are adapting their collections to cater to the regional consumer’s taste and regional brands are now flying in Western markets.
The downside is that the Middle East fragrance market is currently like a bubble. The competitive landscape is cluttered. Established regional players are changing and evolving, as a new generation of business owners come onto the scene. The market is also polarizing, with high luxury brand Amouage leading the way globally from the Sultanate of Oman, but also mass market brands packing a fragrance punch for a very low cost in bazar and trade. Fragrance houses are flocking to the Middle East to expand their footprints, all hoping for a quick ROI. The reality is that brands have now a lot of choice and the fragrances that will stand the test of time are those that will be able to associate true relevance, authenticity and coherence with their target consumers
The ambition is there, and it is big. Whether at the high end of the market, the mid or the mass, brands are using all the tools available to build presence globally. Arabian Oud is actively building brand awareness through trade show participation in prestigious locations, Amouage is building bridges, one retail experience after another. At the more affordable end of the spectrum, Lattafa is building a cult following with influencers in the West, and Armaf is actively creating a community of followers. Most of these brands operate independently, with own capital or family funds, which gives them speed, agility and full control of product decisions. It allows for a quick supply chain and speed to market. They also operate a tight control over their selected distribution models, which also grants them power of choosing what goes on the shelf and rapid geographic expansion.
Middle East fragrance can’t be referred to as a trend; it is here to stay. Consumers have experienced faceted, complex, rich and opulent scents, and they want more. Angel introduced gourmands in 1992, and fast forward to today and gourmand is everywhere. It surpassed the trend to become a staple. This is what I see happening with Middle Eastern influence in perfumery. This is the birthplace of scent, so can we really talk about a trend, or a cultural foundation finally blooming to the world?”
SFA Neroli President Alexandrine Demachy
“The Middle East is the fastest growing market. Why? Because China is still slow, because of the war in Russia and EU sanctions. The US is doing well as usual, although Europe is slowing.
Middle Eastern brands have a large number of references, and it’s so creative, of high quality and for a retail price that’s far below what we have in Europe, so the consumer has a much better quality-price ratio when they buy a bottle of perfume. The brands are also bold and daring, which may [influence some of the big Western players].
The speed of delivery is the biggest challenge in this market – the pace of the renewal of the references is amazing, with brands launching new collections every six months. It’s a little bit like fast fashion, but with a very high-quality product. Customers are very demanding, and you need to be fast.”
Eurofragance Creative Centre Director IMEA Oumayma Tabet
“Initiatives like Saudi Vision 2030 and Dubai’s positioning as a retail luxury hub have positioned the region as a focal point for the fragrance industry. Historically, Paris and New York were the primary anchors of perfumery. Today, the Middle East stands prominently on the global fragrance map. This has accelerated the ambitions of many regional brands that have already established strong international footprints. The Middle East is no longer just a regional player; it’s shaping global fragrance trends and redefining luxury on the world stage.”
Alshaya Group President of the Wellness Division Rebecca Jobo
“The shift of traditional retail in parts of the Middle East to more of an omnichannel customer experience is reshaping how beauty brands grow. Online beauty sales are growing fast, social commerce is booming, and stores are becoming more experiential rather than transactional.”
Innovations seen in show
Luxury distribution company Chalhoub Group and its retail nameplate Faces showcased Layla AI, a Generative AI-powered beauty coach. Layla AI is meant to act like an in-store consultant for the online environment and provides recommendations across skincare, make-up, fragrance and haircare. Chalhoub Group says that Layla AI learns and adapts with every conversation, capturing shifting preferences, seasonal needs and beauty trends. The company adds that the tool’s fluency in all Arabic dialects encourages the trust and relatability that are vital to customer engagement in the Middle East.
Dariene Sabbagh, General Manager E-commerce & Omnichannel at Chalhoub said: “The tool advises our customers on how to choose the right perfume, because fragrance is big in the market, but also how to build your skincare routine. Skincare is extremely under-penetrated in the region because people don’t know how to use it. The tool tells you about ingredients, how to layer them together, which products to use with each other. Shopping online is quite hard, because there is a product page which is impersonal and customers have so many questions. Sometimes they don’t even know the size of the product.”
Layla AI also provides real-time data on shifting preferences and unmet needs in a bid to help with pricing and campaign strategies. Sabbagh said: “What we value is the insights from the customers, because they’re asking very unique and layered questions, which we never expected and it shows that customers really need advice to shop. All of these insights will help us serve the customer better and to give them a better selection.”
Layla AI is currently available on the retailer’s app and will launch on the website in January 2026. “Then we want to add it to our network of stores. Customers are coming to stores with with their ChatGPT recommendation, so we want to make sure beauty advisors are empowered through Layla. It is also for customers who don’t want to talk to a beauty advisor or want to discover on their own,” Sabbagh says.
Since its launch, Chalhoub Group says Layla AI has increased customer engagement, with conversion rates 2.5 times higher than non-AI sessions. Users’ browsing sessions are on average 7.4 minutes longer and they explore 27% more products. Some 79% of interactions take place in Arabic and 85% of users come from Saudi Arabia. Sabbagh said: “The tool is extremely localized because 80% of our customers speak only Arabic.” The company says Layla AI is the first in a series of investments in conversational commerce. Chalhoub Group intends to develop Layla AI to include features like skin diagnostics, virtual try-on, gamification and omnichannel integration.
Ajmal presented a collection of five fragrances called Untold Stories which aims to highlight the perfumers behind the scents. The fragrances are named Chapter One through to Chapter Five. Consumers can scan QR codes to learn more about each fragrance and each perfumer’s story. Amandine Nikuze, Vice President Perfumery, said the aim was to create a collection that reflects an increased focus on sustainability and ethical sourcing. The fragrances come in recycled packaging.
Ajmal will also launch a new collection of 10 fragrances specifically for the US in November to be distributed solely online through Amazon and the brand’s website.
Saudi beauty brand Asteri is to enter the skincare category. The new line is positioned as simple products that hydrate the skin and protect the microbiome just before make-up application, and resist the region’s high temperatures. Founder Sara Al Rashid says the brand will look to expand in the region in 2026, with a launch in the UAE. Al Rashid sees much potential for skincare in the region: “I see a change in people caring about products that are vegan and care for the skin; they don’t just want make-up, and that was not the case before.”
Cosmo International Fragrances unveiled a new collection called ‘YumFairy’ which aims to re-interpret the gourmand trend. The ‘YumFairy’ collection comprises fine fragrances, hair and body mists, candles, bukhoor and home scents. Katie Bell, Global Marketing and Communication Director, said: “Born from the global Kidult and Nostalgia trends, and in response to a world of growing uncertainty and complexity, YumFairy invites consumers to reconnect with their inner child. Crafted like a dessert for the senses, YumFairy combines indulgent gourmand accords with elegant craftsmanship, making luxury approachable, fun, and accessible.”
The fragrances contain a blend of natural ingredients that Cosmo says are sustainably sourced, enhanced with the company’s signature technologies like AquaElixir and ScentBloom Duo. These ingredients include: Cacao Blanc Peru Craftivity, a gourmand note combining rich balsamic tones with creamy warmth; Patchouli Indonesia Molecular Distillation, a woody scent layered with earthy and amber undertones; Orange Flower Morocco Craftivity, floral notes with citrus, green touches and a honeyed sweetness, crafted using extraction from upcycled blossoms; Petitgrain Lime Colombia Essence, evokes the zesty freshness of lime leaves, sourced from the Cosmo’s farm; and Styrax Honduras Molecular Distillation, a balsamic fragrance recalling resins, smooth aged leather and a hint of incense smoke.
The company’s pink-colored booth reflected the gourmand theme of the collection. Marc Blaison, CEO, said the gourmand trend continues in the Middle East, but with less typical ingredients. Samira Boumediene, General Manager GCC (pictured on the right with BW Confidential’s Alison Postma), highlighted the popularity of fruity oud or juicy fruits with leather. She says that other ongoing trends are hair and body mists, including those that are water-based, deodorant sprays and home fragrances such as candles and reed or electric diffusers.
CPL Aromas unveiled a collection called Manzili: Portraits of Belonging, which the company says celebrates connection, culture and emotion through fragrance. Inspired by the book Dubai is My Home, authored by Marie-Jeanne Acquaviva and photographed by Olivia Froudkine, the collection evokes the stories of seven individuals from diverse backgrounds living in Dubai who have helped shape the city’s cultural landscape. A section of the booth also paid homage to Saudi Arabia’s tribes, inspired by Assouline’s book The Flower Men, which aimed to highlight how fragrance can serve as a bridge between heritage and innovation.
Expressions Parfumées presented two unisex layering kits comprising three fragrances each that can be used alone or mixed and matched. The kits are in line with the layering trend which has been influenced by social media, with consumers showing themselves using a variety of fragrances that express their personalities at different times throughout the day. The kits target Gen Z in particular. The Unfiltered kit comprises Bold, Messy and Calm, while the Loving Loud kit comprises Real, Glowy and Heartsy. The fragrances are made using Expressions Parfumées’ GOODMOODS+ technology, which it claims creates scents that have emotional benefits for consumers.
The company says the layering trend has become well-established worldwide, with 36% of UK fragrance users mixing or layering their scents and 26% of US fragrance users layering their products on purpose. It adds that the trend resonates particularly among millennials and Gen Z, with 61% of those aged 25-34 in the UK engaging in layering. The hashtag #perfumelayering with 24.7K posts on TikTok.
Expressions Parfumées showcased its Signature Collection, a collection of captive bases. The captive bases are low dosage while still being powerful and are not analytically detectable, which means they are not able to be copied. Marie Eugénie Bouge, Director of Marketing and Communication (left), says they bring a specific signature to a fragrance amid the proliferation of dupes. They aim to bring depth, texture, strength or brightness to a formula.
The company also presented its new technology Escentsual, a fragrance creation platform for composing scents that evoke sensuality. Expressions Parfumées says the technology comes in response to the rise of new trends around seduction and self-empowerment. It states that 74% of consumers think “my fragrance makes me more desirable and gives me more sex appeal” and 72% of consumers say “someone’s fragrance can make me want to touch or kiss them”.
dsm-firmenich showcased a new collection of fragrances called “Celeste, the Scent of the Infinite”, inspired by celestial elements, such as meteors and supernovas. The collection comprises nine fragrances and reflects each perfumer’s perspective on how these cosmic entities might smell. The fragrances are housed in bottles by fine fragrance packaging company Indiscents. dsm-firmenich also presented its technologies Eterwell Youth for aging skin, Eterwell Hair for aging hair, Syn-Coll CB green chemistry for collagen protection, Pentavitin for hydration and Parsol for sun protection.
Philippine de Vanssay, Senior Marketing Manager, says the company is reinforcing its presence in the region. She explains that the region was once inspired by global blockbusters, but now local Middle Eastern fragrance trends (especially when it comes to long lastingness and performance) have become the global codes.
Givaudan showcased its Guardians of Memories game, which is available on gaming platform Roblox. For the show, the company created an avatar called Amir, who acted as a guide, accompanying visitors via screens throughout the stand to meet the perfumers and discover their scents. Each perfumer also had their own avatar. Five perfumers each created two eaux de parfum, while perfumer Virginie Pons composed four personal care and home care scents: a scented hair serum, a body mist for men, a laundry scent booster and a wooden wick candle.
Fragrance house Iberchem unveiled a new collection called RHYTHMS, inspired by four styles of dance: Ballet, tango, flamenco and hip hop. The perfumes were displayed in a stand with kinetic elements and hourly performances from entertainment company Dance It Out Dubai. Iberchem also showcased TRIBUTE, a fragrance created by Fragrance Creation Director Luz Vaquero, for the company’s 40th anniversary. The perfume was presented alongside an interactive video and a mocktail bar serving drinks that complement the fragrance.
(Left Guillaume Audy, Corporate Communications and Sustainability Director & BW Confidential’s Alison Postma)
IFF’s booth, which it named ‘Beyond the Scent: A Living Dreamscape’, showcased new fruit extracts by LMR Naturals and new molecules, while a collection called Livings comprised scents that aimed to evoke the Middle East’s olfactive heritage. In addition, seven of IFF’s perfumers from Paris and Dubai created an original accord, which they then used to create two compositions to represent current and future olfactory inspirations.
IFF presented The Fragrance Observatory, global consumer insights and fragrance trends from Brazil, China, India and the US, where it says Arabian perfumery is attracting growing consumer interest. The company also premiered “Every Human” by ScentTronix, a new AI-driven ScentTronix customization experience that allowed guests to create fragrances using IFF and LMR ingredients. This year marked IFF’s return to the show after a four year absence.
MANE presented Exsalted, an olfactory and architectural installation conceived with designer Ila Colombo and created in collaboration with design agency DEOND. The pavilion explored salt as a source of inspiration. The structure was made from recycled polymers using robotic 3D printing technologies and was meant to reflect the company’s focus on innovation and sustainability. Nine perfumers from the company’s creative centers in Paris, Dubai, New York, and Shanghai created a collection of fragrances whose aim was to capture the essence of salt.
In September, MANE opened a newly expanded regional hub in Dubai, which has doubled in size to 2,400m2.
Parfex showcased a new collection called The Elixirs of Time, inspired by the heritage of Middle Eastern perfumery and its potential future. Parfex says the collection blends tradition with contemporary creativity and commemorates the brand’s 40 years of creation. The collection comprises eight fragrances, including two collaborative scents: the gourmand Parfex 2025 and Parfex 2050, a minimalist fragrance with crystalline musks and mineral nuances. With notes of myrrh, incense, citrus, spices like cardamom, musks, leather and rose, the palette aims to reflect the Middle Eastern market’s tastes. Master perfumer Jean-François Thizon created Crystal Nectar in response to the current trend for fruits and juicy freshness.
SFA Neroli presented a collection called Duality, which comprised six duos of fragrances, with each duo based on a single raw material and representing a human feeling with two interpretations: soft and fierce. The company’s perfumers also created a collection of scents on the theme ‘The Scent of Dubai’, as well as a collection of Bakhoor scents, with SFA Neroli noting the popularity of its hairbrush that applies Bakhoor in particular.
Symrise’s booth had a ‘Beach Club’ theme, which it says reflects the juicy fruit and gourmand trend in the Middle East. It brought together the company’s Fine Fragrance, Consumer Fragrance and Food & Beverage divisions. The company showcased a new collection comprising fine fragrance, beauty care, home care and flavors around the ‘Beach Club’ concept. The collection is built around three olfactive pillars – juicy fruits, swimming freshness and sunbathing skin. It uses signature Symrise ingredients, including the most recent launches from Lautier 1795 and captives from its Holzminden Lab.
In addition, Symrise introduced Flavorscent for the first time, a new range of ingredients co-created by perfumers and flavorists, with its debut collection focused on red fruits. These ingredients were used within the juicy fruits pillar of its collection for the show, which Symrise describes as one of today’s most dynamic olfactive trends.
In addition, Symrise presented the latest De Laire base, Vanilla Debut DL, launched for World Vanilla Day. The company also highlighted its Actimood neuroscience technology, demonstrating the emotional impact of the air sprays and body splashes on display.
Takasago presented 12 fragrances, with each described as a concentration of addiction, and featuring key raw materials with a twist. They included a fragrance enhancer Red Sun by Marine Ipert, 10 eaux de parfum that are meant to connect East and West and revisit the region’s emblematic ingredients, and the Kyphi of Kings and Suns by Senior Perfumer Emilie Bouge, which was inspired by the first perfume in history from ancient Egypt, Kyphi. Presented in a golden lamp, it uses ultrasound technology that blends water with the perfume to diffuse the fragrance in a fine mist. Takasago will open a new office and creative center in Dubai in the first quarter of 2026.
Xerjoff previewed what it calls a private collection just for the Emirates, which launched on the UAE’s National Day on December 2. The collection comprises seven fragrances, one for each Emirate. They can be purchased separately or as a full collection in a luxury box.
Xerjoff also showcased Gibeon, the new fragrance it launched this year for its Shooting Stars collection; Torino25, the latest fragrance born out of its sponsorship of the tennis ATP finals in Torino, Italy; a rose version of its Louis XV fragrance, called Louis XV 1722 Rosé, a collaboration with the French champagne house Maison de Venoge. In addition, it presented the three limited edition fragrances it launched this year as part of Xerjoff’s Sketchbook collection, called P.13, P.18 and P.70, which are priced at €1,100, €1,200 and €1,300 respectively.
Xerjoff will expand to the US and South America in the first half of next year and opened a new store on in Paris in October.
Beautyworld Middle East Awards
The Beautyworld Middle East Awards 2025 took place at a gala dinner at the Conrad Hotel in Dubai, the United Arab Emirates attended by 400 executives.
BW Confidential was exclusive media partner for the Awards and created the program for the evening and also published a special edition featuring the winners.
The Beautyworld Awards, which recognize innovation and excellence in the beauty and fragrance industry, had a record 800 entries, 85 finalists, 18 judges and 17 award categories, in addition to a Lifetime Achievement Award. There are also two dedicated categories – Niche Fragrance and Popular Fragrance of the Year – to reflect the Middle East’s growing global influence in perfumery. Organizers said Popular Fragrance of the Year received nearly 300 entries.
The Lifetime Acheiver Award went to Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, Master In-House Perfumer at LVMH, to recognize his career as one of the leading experts in the luxury fragrance field. In Cavallier-Belletrud’s absence, the award was presented on his behalf by Jérôme Viaud, Mayor of Grasse.
Beautyworld Middle East Awards winners 2025
Lifetime Achievement Award: Jacques Cavallier Belletrud
Technology Innovation of the Year: Olfactory Intelligence by Osmo
Innovative Packaging of the Year: Laverne x Georgina Rodriguez Sense Perfume by Laverne
Luxury Packaging of the Year: Fanscentic by Mercury Global Packaging Solutions
Hair Styling Device of the Year: ghd Chronos Max by Nazih Group
Hair Product of the Year: Living Proof PhD Dry Solutions by Beauty Solutions Trading
Nail Product of the Year: Artistic Base Coat Reactive Render by Nazih Group
Conscious Brand of the Year: Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics
Media Campaign of the Year: Ube Collection by Huda Beauty
Personal Care Product of the Year: UV Drops SPF 50+ by Day+
Male Grooming Product of the Year: Resurfacing Peel by MANN Skincare
Cosmetic Product of the Year: Easy Bake Setting Spray by Huda Beauty
Skincare Product of the Year: Phyto AOX Facial Oil No.10 by Topical Skin
Popular Fragrance of the Year: Yum Boujee Marshmellow 81 Eau de Parfum Intense by Kayali
Niche Fragrance of the Year: Caden by Omanluxury
Newcomer Brand of the Year: Haan
Homegrown Brand of the Year: Ojar
Retailer of the Year: Beautique