BW Confidential highlights the key trends and talking points from the MakeUp in Paris trade show, which took place at the Carrousel du Louvre in the French capital from June 14-15
Despite recent problems in the supply chain and inflation, exhibitors of the Make-Up in Paris show were optimistic overall about the recovery of the color-cosmetics market following the sector’s Covid slump. According to exhibitors, brands are returning to launching more special editions and collections, and also showing interest again in customized designs.
While most players said that supply-chain pressures have eased, there remain question marks over the potential impact of rising prices on consumer spend on beauty. Shortage of labour on all levels of company organizations (from the factory floor to managerial staff) is also still a crucial issue.
This year, the MakeUp in Paris show took place over a Wednesday and Thursday (instead of the traditional Thursday and Friday) – a move that was welcomed by exhibitors and generally praised as being a more productive format.
A total of 4,579 visitors attended the event, while 150 companies exhibited this year. Show organizers also said that 50% of exhibitors submitted products to be judged in the show’s Innovation & Trends (IT) Awards.
Key trends from the show
Sustainability continues to be the main concern and area of focus for brands. Refills were much in evidence at the show, including mascaras with flexible internal refills from Brivaplast, rechargeable airless sticks from Samhwa, as well as refillable lipsticks and reusable pencils. In addition, there were a number of mono-material items and packs with a smaller number of components for easier recyclability. However, several exhibitors stated that when it comes to sustainability, more attention needs to be given to the end of life of a product (including how it is re-used, as well as how it is recycled or disposed of), and to creating more sustainable processes involved in packaging manufacturing, especially in the area of decoration.
Recovery. “The market has definitely recovered,” was how one executive summed up the state of the color-cosmetics sector. More brands are now asking for limited editions, summer editions or Christmas editions, a trend that had almost dried up during Covid. Brands are also increasingly looking again to custom solutions and specific shapes, rather than just standards in a bid to differentiate themselves on the market.
Lips. Whether color or glosses, lip products continue to drive the recovery of make-up, according to exhibitors.
Bright and vibrant colors are back in style. Consumers are attracted to bold and graphic looks, in line with the trend for self-expression. The 80s color trends are in vogue. Linked with this is increasing popularity of freckles, temporary make-up tattoos and glitter.
Professional touch. Influenced by social-media how-tos, make-up artist tutorials, online makeovers and ‘get ready with me’ videos, there is increased demand for tools, applicators and formulas that deliver a professional look and experience.
Hybrid products. While not new, items combining skincare and make-up properties have now become standard.
Sensorial effects. Make-up and skincare that change their textures, for example from gels to creams, or from solids to liquids are becoming more popular, as are intensely creamy formulas that are perceived as being good for, and easy on the skin.
German company Geka showcased its new micro-bristle applicators for skincare, which contain no glue or metal. The collection includes a non-flocked and transparent applicator for face serums and two delicate micro-bristle applicators for precise and soft application, suited to the under-eye area for example. In lips, it presented a mini blender applicator, which can be used for contouring and to provide a quick and even application.
Geka also highlighted its shadow printing service, which provides clients with a sustainable decoration option for bottles and caps. The patented technology modifies the surface without the use of additional foil or ink, meaning it has a lower carbon footprint. Shadow printing can combine matt and shiny surfaces, and custom shapes, patterns and textures can be applied to bottles or caps. The first product on the market featuring the technology is the Mini Makes Mega Volume & Definition Mascara by SANTE Naturkosmetik (pictured). The shadow printing technology was also nominated for a MakeUp in Paris IT Award.
German company Faber Castell unveiled two concepts at the show under the theme of ‘Soft Grunge’. The Soft Grunge theme harks back to the punk/grunge style of the 1990s, which has seen a revival due in part to the popularity of Netflix series Stranger Things and Wednesday. It also plays into the current trend for self-expression.
The first concept is a double-ended liquid eyeliner. One end of the liner features a brush tip for precise application, while the other has a slanted tip for broader lines. By combining two application types in one product, the eyeliner also responds to increased demand for sustainable products.
The second concept is a new texture for the company’s plastic slim pencil. The company says that the main point of differentiation is the texture – it has a soft, creamy formula to give a smudgy, blended eye make-up look. Also key is the formula’s long-lastingness. Faber Castell says the product last up to 16 hours as an eyeliner, and up to eight hours as a lipliner. The formula is also claimed to be clean, vegan and free of micro-plastics.
Texen showcased the Edge Collection, a range of applicators focused on precise application, ease of use and with sustainable credentials. The collection comprises eight items that can be used for either make-up or skincare. The mascara applicator in the collection, called No Boundary (pictured) has no fiber bristles; instead small grooves in the applicator catch the formula to provide precision and a volume effect, Texen Product Manager Nathasha Marquez says. Also in the collection is Portal, an applicator with a small hole in the center aimed at delivering a precise and uniform application of lipstick, and Tip, a bottle with a dropper that claims to deliver the precise dose of formula where it is needed. The collection also includes Border Line, which is described as an ultra-precise liner with an ergonomic design, and Frame, a roller type applicator aimed at applying full foundation coverage.
Texen won an IT Award in the Accessories category for its Multi Intensity Brush. The brush has a rotating system, enabling the user to modulate the length and density of the brush bristles, depending on the type of formula being applied. For example, when the brush is set to the shortest setting, it can be used for contouring, while it can be set to the longest setting for the application of blush. The company says that the product is eco-friendly, as consumers need only one brush for a range of formula applications.
Aptar Beauty presented Space Sift, a pack that claims to dispense the precise amount of powder, thereby avoiding product wastage. The patent-pending pack dispenses the powder needed for use into a custom well. Users can then sift back the excess powder into the package and close the dispensing system into a locked position – the pack’s sliding unlock and lock feature claims to prevent product waste. The system also makes for a mess-free application, Aptar says. In addition, the pack has a thin design, thereby saving on space in-store.
Aptar also unveiled a 15ml version of its Star Drop dispensing system. Aptar says it continues to push its Private Refill collection – which was also on show – the company’s aluminium refill solution for lipstick.
Italy-based Gotha Cosmetics presented a range of products focusing on the theme of ‘Realignment’. The company says that the theme refers to the realignment with ourselves, our workplaces and the planet, following the rapid technological acceleration and changes of recent years. In beauty, this translates as calming products and those centered on wellbeing. Within this overall concept, Gotha has identified three main trends: Dare to Care, Green Lab, Meta Disruptive.
The Dare to Care trend features products that combine instant and long-term beauty benefits and those that provide results with minimum effort and target all ages, ethnicities and genders. It includes wellbeing products, make-up aimed at self-expression and multi-functional make-up hybrid items.
Green Lab is aimed at consumers who are increasingly demanding safety, quality and transparency from their beauty products. It includes science-backed beauty and lab-grown ingredients claimed to be good for the skin and the planet.
The Meta Disruptive trend encompasses Gotha’s futuristic take on beauty. The company calls this trend its ‘phygital avant-garde collection’. The company says it will cater to consumers’ move into the metaverse.
China-based make-up brush and accessories manufacturer Beauty Yaurient presented the Iron Collection. The collection is a range of six ergonomic beauty tools, and includes a short-handled brush and several facial massage tools. The company also showed its sustainable brush, which is manufactured without glue, meaning that when it is taken apart it can be easily recycled.
The MakeUp in Paris Innovation & Trends (IT) Awards
This year, a jury of 13 experts nominated 31 new skincare and make-up products from 117 entries for prizes awarded in four categories: Accessories, Formulation, Full Service and Packaging. The jury also awarded two special mentions. The winners were:
Accessories category: Texen for its the Multi Intensity Brush a brush with a rotating mechanism (see above).
Formulation category: MS Beautylab for its Supernova Green powder, which contains 99% natural ingredients. The jury also awarded a special mention to the compact eyeshadow Hypnotic Very Noir by Aircos, Anjac Health and Beauty.
Full Service category: Trendcolor for its coCOOLmelon blush, which claims to deliver an immersive sensory experience. The jury also awarded a special mention to the Maya technology by Chromavis Fareva.
Packaging category: Libo Cosmetics for its Venus rechargeable lipstick, which is exclusively made from 100% aluminium.